When I was Director of Education at Clairol, I had a lengthy conversation with a man who owned a new and rapidly-growing hair color brand. He had created a 'new' way of explaining how to predict the lifting '(lightening) ability of permanent hair color. While I continue to respect his dedication, passion and intelligence, I have NEVER agreed with his approach attached to communicating how permanent hair color 'works'. In my opinion, -- tested over a very long time-- this method is incorrect.
Briefly: The real controlling factor attached to hair color's ability to 'lift', is the Shade's Level of ALKALINITY!
Acidic no-lift Demi shades are at a low Ph-- they are acidic and do not 'lift' the hair
Slightly Alkaline Demi colors have NO lift.. or can Very Slightly 'lift' a level or less when mixed with 13 or 20 volume developer
Permanent Hair color is ALKALINE -- at a ph level of 9.3 -10.5... when mixed with developer, the alkalinity present causes both a lift of pigment in the hair's cortex and a simultaneous deposit of the pigments contained in the color formula.
Test this for yourself, using virgin hair swatches. -- This subject is only one of the important topics my website friends can understand, in depth. I will be sharing this at my Immersion into Hair Color Sessions at ABS next month- April, 2023. I hope you will join us.
Now, Colorists can choose the level of alkalinity they mix into a color formula. I represent the brand that has created this very exacting way we can offer our client's the correct alkalinity 'dose' best for them. Thx for reading this. Comment here if you'd like. B