Clarifying VOCABULARY
Advances in hair color science and technology never stop! It seems like every year, we
see new color categories and shades being introduced into the market. Learning about
how to use them can make salon life much easier and certainly more interesting.
Recently, an attendee at one of my programs, who had recently graduated from beauty
school, had not been introduced to the world of demi-permanent hair color. She had
heard the term "long lasting semi-permanent" hair color, and asked me to explain.
Here's how I attempted to clarify these definitions: Semi-permanent hair color was originally
a product that was developed to "wash away" gray hair without using peroxide. Believe it or not, "peroxide" had a bad name because... "nice women don't use peroxide in their hair and
peroxide can damage the hair".
One of the most successful semi-permanent brands was Loving Care by Clairol .
It was available in a variety of shades ranging from black to blonde and was applied
to shampooed, thoroughly towel dried hair. After processing, the color was thoroughly
rinsed from the hair. No shampoo necessary. It very effectively erased gray hair until
is was shampooed out several times.
The colorist (or home user) applied this directly from the applicator. It was NOT MIXED with
anything, and was directed to be processed for 20-30 minutes at room temperature. A
plastic bag was placed over the hair during processing. The salon instructions directed that during the first application, product should be applied all over the head. And
when retouching four to six weeks later, the formula was to be applied only to the "new"
regrowth hair that had grown out -- because after repeat applications, the color deposit
could "build up" on the more porous hair lengths.
REMEMBER: Semi-Permanent Color is made of of pre-oxidized and direct dyes so
NO DEVELOPER is needed. Semi-Permanent Color has no ability to lighten the hair.
It can match or darken hair... for up to four to six shampoos (sometimes more!).
Demi-Permanent Color differs from semi-permanent hair color. It's chemical makeup
requires that it be mixed with a low volume developer (peroxide). Demi-Permanent color
consists of both oxidative and pre-oxidized (direct) dyes. These formulas stain the cuticle
and the outside of the hair's cortex. They also penetrate the wall of the cortex, giving
the product a more "permanent" attribute, and a reflective quality that mimics natural
hair color. If demi-permanent color is processed under heat, longer wearability and a more brilliant, richer depost of tone is possible.
Demi permanent color effectively blends those first gray hairs, and is longer lasting than semi
permanent color. Newer Demis can truly cover gray hair, refresh faded hair lengths as a gloss or a glaze, and can effectively tone pre-lightened hair. NO LIFT and all DEPOSIT.
Demi Color uses Developer, and Deepens the hair.
When a product is labeled "long lasting semi-permanent"... take a look at the instructions. If
the product is applied after being mixed with a developer.. it is demi-permanent. Or, if it is
applied without being mixed with a developer.. it is indeed a semi-permanent product. As you
know many of today's very effective color shampoos and conditioners do contain very advanced quality semi-permanent dyes. We have come a long way from the days of
being limited in the types of coloring products we choose!
I look forward to seeing you in class in Palm Beach (January) and in South Carolina (March),
as well as at ABS for a private luncheon sponsored by Beauty Fusion. Details available here,
as always. B
o.