I share this, simply as a review for my very elite color members here: Let's talk about
how a chemist evaluates and then defines the level of a shade he has been asked to
create for a brand:
OK. Let's say that a manufacturer has asked to create a level 8 (light blonde) shade of
hair color. (Let's consider only LEVEL here.. tone is next). The chemist starts to work
and creates, what he, and the equipment in his lab define as "level 8". Usually a machine
called a Tri-stimulus Hunter Spectro-photometer is used. This sophisticated instrument measures absorption and reflection of light... thereby measuring "level".
The chemist (or chemist's assistant), now utilizes hair swatches which are very special and which are 100 percent "virgin" white (gray)l. The assistant properly dyes out the swatches at room
temperature, mixing the color with the standard 20 volume developer, and processing for
45 minutes. Then, the swatches are rinsed, shampooed and conditioned. .. Blown dry
and ironed. When placed under the machinery and measured for accuracy, the chemist
either makes any adjustments or can state with accuracy, that the shade is indeed a level 8.
The color performs as the chemist says: That level 8 color does develop to precisely a level 8 when applied to 100 percent white hair. The swatch is generally sent to the manufacturer's marketing and educational departments for review.
There are 2 times when a level 8 shade will create a level 8 result:
When applied to 100 percent white (gray) virgin hair
When applied to virgin level 7 hair.
I Hope this bit of information has been of interest! Next stop for my color learning
sessions: Detroit, Michigan, April 29th. B
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