Lightening natural hair color with control is really a balancing act. When we are transitioning dark or medium brown hair to a lighter brown, that "brassy" reddish result can show up, even
when we have used a cool or ash-toned shade of permanent hair color. And, lightest brunette or dark blonde can also lighten to a shade that appears far too golden or golden orange.
When this happens: FIRST: Remain calm and behave as though nothing is wrong. (This
situation is easily repaired. SECOND: DO NOT attempt to lighten the hair further using
another permanent hair color shade or bleach.. this can make the situation more difficult.
NEXT: Calmly look at the demi liquid, demi creme or demi gel shades in your dispensary.
Search for an Ash, Cool, or Smoky shade of a demi color. For brunettes, a level 5 or 6 cool
demi shade, mixed with five volume developer, and applied evenly and neatly to the offending "Hot Root" area will correct the problem in as little as 12 - 20 minutes. I recommend that after first towel drying and detangling the hair, that you do NOT perform
this correction at the sink. Take the client to a chair, keep her dry and comfortable, and
apply the formula. Assure her that this sometimes can happen and that in just a few minutes her hair will be just as she expected.
And for those blonde clients suffering from 'Heat At The Scalp", perform the procedure described above... this time, using a level 7 or 8 Demi Permanent Shade.. Blue, Cool or Smoky based, again mixed with five volume developer. If the brand of demi you use includes a 6.5 volume developer rather than 5 volume, use this dedicated developer.
Over time, I've heard from colorists who tried to correct this by reapplying a cool shade of
permanent hair color..... remember, ALL permanent color is alkaline, and has the ability
to "lift".. as well as to deposit tone. SO..... Keep this little tidbit in mind if and when this
occurs at your salon. I'm packing my color accessories for my class in Chicago, and hope to see you there! B