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Current Color Level MATTERS.. When we attempt to Banish Unwanted Warm Tones

When we observe that we need to cancel out unwanted "brassy" or warm tones in

the hair... particularly in the faded and more porous hair lengths, it is important that

before applying anything we consider the current color LEVEL of the hair. When

the formula is too light, we cancel almost nothing. But, when the level of the formula

is too dark... we can be in trouble!


Experienced colorists know that porous hair ALWAYS "grabs" darker and or drabber

than we might expect. My long-term colorist pals know that when attempting to

neutralize warmth, I ALWAYS use demi-permanent color, mixed with five volume

developer.


As a general recommendation, hair that looks "too warm or too red" at levels five

and deeper, neutralize best when a level 6 or 7 blue-based "ash" shade is applied.

When hair is at a level 6 to 7, I apply a level 9 cool shade. And, for those

super pale blondes, I mix a level 9 with equal parts of a 'Clear" acidic demi shade

to counterbalance unwanted warmth without darkening the hair.


Sometimes we want to be incredibly careful, and might apply a neutralizing shade

that is simply a bit too light. -- and the hair remains brassy. But, it IS better to see

hair that needs to be a bit cooler than it is to see a result that now looks BLACK!

I hope this little note has been helpful.


All of us have our favorite color brands. Use exactly what works best for you.

There are many great color brands out there today.


I will share that I'm having great success with this situation, using

only three shades of an acidic liquid demi color: Beauty Fusion by Artego:

6.11, 9.11 and CLEAR. mixed with equal parts of five volume developer.


Brunettes Levels 4 and deeper. 6.11

Hair Levels 5 - 7. 9.11

Hair that is PALE BLONDE and porous: Equal parts of 9.11 and CLEAR.

I apply to damp hair, and process for 5 - 10 minutes before rinsing.

NOTE:

The .11 shades in Beauty Fusion are "double blue". ..and, remember,

blue IS the coolest shade on the color wheel. These shades are sheer,

translucent, and effective.


Come learn with me! Let me know if YOU and your salon are interested in

private education designed precisely for your needs. email me at bethminardi@

gmail.com. Beth

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