Several of our members are asking about deepening clients who are tired of wearing a "super white blonde" hair color. They ask for ways to create a richer, neutral/cool deep
As most of you know, I always create deeper blonde results via placing various sliced and
woven lowlights throughout those very light blonde bae shades. After years of creating lovely, richer blonde results, I do all I can to "avoid regret".... I've learned that clients who
are wearing very light blonde hair, even after asking for a deeper blonde results, often
look at their gorgeous, richer blonde shade, and believe that their new color is BLACK!
This can create massive anxiety for everyone. So, I prefer to use a demi creme "demi
plus" formula... "simultaneously "filling" and deepening the hair in one step. I wrap this
formula into selected strands.. thereby creating a population of richer, deeper, neutral
blonde dimensional color shots into the hair. Hey! It's great when the client says "I like this. Can we
do more of these"..... Thereby, eliminating "regret" for all of us.
Remember, most blonde hair is POROUS. Applying an ash shade most always creates a very "not pretty" battleship gray, blue or blue-green tone, as that bleached hair is devoid of
pigment... missing the underlying golden/orange foundation that supports even those
clients whose natural hair color appears to be a rich ash blonde.
When deepening the hair to a deep blonde, our "filler" formula must be a PASTEL orange golden. Mixing 1/2 ounce of a level 9 or 10 golden peach demi plus formula with 1 1/2 ounces of a neutral level 7 blonde.. and very low volume developer.. is my formula of
Using Wella Color Touch, I've used 10/34 mixed with 7/0 and 1.9 percent developer.
Using Beauty Fusion Phyto Tech Color, I enjoy mixing 1 ounce of 12G plus 1/2 ounce
7.44 and 1 ounce of 7.0 with equal parts of 5 volume Oxycreme developer.
The soft, neutral - cool blonde results are great. .. and, PS: I leave out a few strands of hair
around the face frame and through the crown.. this creates that "just in the sun for a few days" shade-on-shade result.
BUT. If you choose to deepen "the whole head". FIRST "fill the entire head.. root to ends.. with the warm formula. Process for 20 minutes at room temperature. Then, do NOT
shampoo. Rinse well and towel dry. THEN apply formula number two.. your richer blonde
shade as noted above. Again apply evenly, covering all the hair. Massage in well. Allow
the client to process at room temperature for 15 - 20 minutes. .. checking often.
AND, BEFORE DOING this "all over" deepening of the hair. CLEARLY EXPLAIN to the client
that she cannot leave the salon with wet hair... Wet hair ALWAYS looks darker than thoroughly dried.. blown out- styled hair. AND.... PLEASE! NO FURTHER WORK can be done on this hair if the client now decides that her hair is "too dark"....
BREATHE.DEEPLY! When that is the case... YOU did not explain this "one way trip" to
her correctly. She should PAY for this service and return to you in 10 - 14 days for a gentle
blonde highllighting.. for which there WILL BE A CHARGE!
For this reason, I prefer option one: The low lighting option .... which allows us to dip into
that "deeper water" in a safer, less tenuous manner. I look forward to seeing YOU in CLASS! B