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"Never FAIL" Color Recipe

As I present my IMMERSION INTO HAIR COLOR learning sessions, I'm encouraged

to learn that within my group of attendees, many are using a wide variety of hair color

brands. And, while levels may vary a bit, and names might be different, advanced

colorists like those of you here on our page, have no trouble when they find themselves

in a situation where they must apply a brand they do not usually use.

SITUATION: You are working on a client who has almost all gray hair at the root. The

hair lengths are red, copper, copper gold or a natural -looking auburn. Before doing anything, I like to take a look at the hair lengths and ask myself: What is the current

level of this hair shaft? Unless this client desires a highly theatrical super, super

RED result, the best thing we can do is create an acceptable, good red with gray

coverage at the root, and, then (perhaps) glaze the hair shaft slightly to refresh, beautify and

shine the hair lengths (if necessary).

Here's what I do. Example: if the hair lengths are a level 6 (dark blonde with copper tone), I

would carefully take an inventory of the shades on hand. In an effort to avoid "regret",

choose a Neutral (N) or Neutral Warm (NW) shade at level 6. This N or NW shade is

your "safety valve". It will cover the gray AND will not permit the red shade to create

a "far too bright" result at the root. Trust me, the root will be a lovely shade of red, but

will be balanced and not so "hot" that it burns your eyes! To this N or NW, you will add

your copper shade.

One "never fail" formula you can create in this situation: MIX: 1 ounce of that level 6N or 6 NW with 3/4 oz of copper, copper/gold or copper/red at level 7. (choose a copper with an undertone that

mimics what you currently see in the hair lengths. Mix that color as the manufacturer recommends, using 20 volume developer in the proportion directed by the brand. Apply to

the root area only and process for the full development time directed by the manufacturer.

During the last 15 minutes of application, while the color remains in contact with the

roots, you can mix an Acidic Liquid Demi formula with five volume developer and apply

that to the hair lengths as a perfect refresher. Remember that porous hair develops darker/drabber than you might expect, so be SAFE, choose a copper or copper/gold shade at level 8. If the hair is truly, porous, very dry or in bad condition, refresh with a copper/golden at level 9.

Like if or not, it is best to prepare for a situation where what you prefer to use might not

be available. This type of "emergency" formulation is just one of the topics I cover in

my learning sessions. Join us: Next stops: Pittsburgh, Pa., Flanders, NJ and.......

SARASOTA, FLORIDA! Interested? Send a email to Event Director, Damion Devine

at B


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