As I present my IMMERSION INTO HAIR COLOR learning sessions, I'm encouraged
to learn that within my group of attendees, many are using a wide variety of hair color
brands. And, while levels may vary a bit, and names might be different, advanced
colorists like those of you here on our page, have no trouble when they find themselves
in a situation where they must apply a brand they do not usually use.
SITUATION: You are working on a client who has almost all gray hair at the root. The
hair lengths are red, copper, copper gold or a natural -looking auburn. Before doing anything, I like to take a look at the hair lengths and ask myself: What is the current
level of this hair shaft? Unless this client desires a highly theatrical super, super
RED result, the best thing we can do is create an acceptable, good red with gray
coverage at the root, and, then (perhaps) glaze the hair shaft slightly to refresh, beautify and
shine the hair lengths (if necessary).
Here's what I do. Example: if the hair lengths are a level 6 (dark blonde with copper tone), I
would carefully take an inventory of the shades on hand. In an effort to avoid "regret",
choose a Neutral (N) or Neutral Warm (NW) shade at level 6. This N or NW shade is
your "safety valve". It will cover the gray AND will not permit the red shade to create
a "far too bright" result at the root. Trust me, the root will be a lovely shade of red, but
will be balanced and not so "hot" that it burns your eyes! To this N or NW, you will add
your copper shade.
One "never fail" formula you can create in this situation: MIX: 1 ounce of that level 6N or 6 NW with 3/4 oz of copper, copper/gold or copper/red at level 7. (choose a copper with an undertone that
mimics what you currently see in the hair lengths. Mix that color as the manufacturer recommends, using 20 volume developer in the proportion directed by the brand. Apply to
the root area only and process for the full development time directed by the manufacturer.
During the last 15 minutes of application, while the color remains in contact with the
roots, you can mix an Acidic Liquid Demi formula with five volume developer and apply
that to the hair lengths as a perfect refresher. Remember that porous hair develops darker/drabber than you might expect, so be SAFE, choose a copper or copper/gold shade at level 8. If the hair is truly, porous, very dry or in bad condition, refresh with a copper/golden at level 9.
Like if or not, it is best to prepare for a situation where what you prefer to use might not
be available. This type of "emergency" formulation is just one of the topics I cover in
my learning sessions. Join us: Next stops: Pittsburgh, Pa., Flanders, NJ and.......
SARASOTA, FLORIDA! Interested? Send a email to Event Director, Damion Devine
at firstname.lastname@example.org. B