I want to THANK more than one hundred colorists who joined my FREE ZOOM
hair color session yesterday, August 21st. Two more sessions are planned
over the next several months. AND yesterday's session will be up and
available on YouTUBE next week.
We had an interesting and enjoyable exchange! Thanks again! Wonderful questions
were asked about the different ways acidic demi-permanent hair color affects the
hair. As you might remember, long ago, before the introduction of "no lift"
demi-color, colorists were required refresh or tone faded hair by "pulling through"
permanent hair color... which, by definition, is alkaline. So, we were treating an
already compromised part of the hair by exposing it to additional alkalinity!
When I began my career at Clairol, we were directed to help colorists by askiing
them to increase the tonal value and to gently buffer alkalinity by adding a "filler"
(Clairfill) to the root retouch formula, before bringing this onto the hair lengths
when refreshing or brightening them. Wella had a filler called 'Wella-fill, and Redken's
Fillerall was another product which enjoyed a high level of success.
None the less..... an alkaline formula DOES remain alkaline... even when the alkalinity
is reduced. Later, Keane, Schwartzkopf, Goldwell, Redken, and others began using the term
"color balance".. where those faded hair lengths were refreshed via application of a new
type of product... acidic liquid demi-permanent hair color.
I'd love to know your opinion. How are YOU balancing/refreshing faded, porous
hair? Let me know how you glaze/refresh orenhance color-treated hair lengths.
Your opinion matters.
New classes being added to my teaching schedule: Memphis, Tennessee and
Dallas, Texas... I look forward to seeing you in class. B