You may be interested in how two of REDKEN's premiere scientists (late 1960's and early '70.s) recommended as being the best way to perform a retouch or virgin application of
hair lightener..... and it makes sense. I will try this, and think you might want to, as well:
Mssrs. Lapin, two of the premiere Redken color scientists, experimented with how to best
lighten the hair to blonde. They recommended that before applying lightener, that the hair
be very gently detangled, rinsed, and very GENTLY shampooed, conditioned and VERY
THOROUGHLY towel dried.. just to the damp stage. Of course, the scalp must not be
aggressively massaged or briskly towel dried. And, again, the hair must be DAMP rather
than wet.
Here, we are using creme or oil lightener.. we are NOT using powder lightener when performing a global "bleaching" of the hair. It is reported that this technique, while
not used for highlighting, works well when an "all over" lightening of the hair is desired.
The Lapin brothers noted that, like a moist sponge, moist hair "picks up" and "holds" better
than bone dry hair does. So, when performing a bleach application which will involve the
hair lengths, Lapin suggests that the lightener be applied to damp.. (rather than to dry) hair.
They learned during their experiments that lightener glided onto the damp hair very easily, and that it adhered easily, making application easier and most effective.
And, because the hair is damp, the lightener began penetrating into the hair easily.
And,( less important when we measure effectiveness), not as much product is needed.
.. As we have learned over the years, bleach, (professional hair lightener) slows down
in its ability to "lift" as it dries out. Hence the uneven lightening we wish to avoid.
As Dr. John Corbett of Clairol once said to me". The moister the lightener stays during
processing time, the better the lift". ... I have always remembered that.
So, my dear colorist friends. I share this to you chiefly as an FYI. Interesting, I think. and it
does make sense. If you plan to try this.. even by very slightly MISTING the hair with water
prior to applying a lightener solution, let me know your opinion here. Member feedback means a lot to me.. and to our other members as well. I wish you a wonderful week ahead!
Thanksgiving is upon us.. and most certainly, I give thanks to YOU. Comment here and be
sure to tell me where you believe I should be teaching my IMMERSION INTO HAIR COLOR
classes at a location near YOU! B
What oil lightener do you suggest? They are hard to come by these days and I don’t know what my options are.
Once I am back on my feet, I have a particular client I would like to try this on. I will report back on the results.