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When speaking with people who are new colorists, teaching them how to predict final

level has become challenging due to what I believe to be well-intended yet incorrect


VISUAL LEARNING: You will need a large bowl. 4 cups of ice, 4 - 6 cups of

BOILING Water. A firm table which everyone can see. Potholders to hold the pot

of boiling water.

Pour all the ice into the large bowl. Now, slowly add the boiling water to the ice. Ask the

"students" to observe this and to tell you what they see happening here.....

OBVIOUSLY: The ICE is MELTING. The "BOILING" water becomes cooler and is no

longer at the BOILING POINT. .... The Ice has affected the boiling water. The boiling water has affected the ice....

Ask the students to think for a moment, considering that the ice is natural dark hair color. And, that the boiling water is a shade of light permanent hair color. I trust that soon, someone in class will note that the result is somewhere lighter than the dark hair we

started with, and that the light hair color has affected that dark hair.. but that the result

is NOT as light as the way the color was defined on the package. THE RESULT IS

SOMEWHERE IN BETWEEN the natural hair color and the lighter color which was

applied to the hair.

Natural level. plus. Level of Hair Color applied.... Add these together and get a number


Take that number and divide it by 2.... THAT is the final resulting level of the hair.

So: An example: Natural hair is level 3 (medium brown). you apply a color of level 5 (Lightest Brown). 3 plus 5 = 8. Divide this by 2... The final level of the hair is level

4, (Light Brown).

The developer volume matters far less than you have been instructed... more on that coming soon t here on Beth MinArdi-AllAccess! B

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