HAIR LIGHTENER (Bleach) vs. High Lift Permanent Hair Color

When a chemist defines how bleach acts in the hair, they note that bleach has the ability to dissolve (eliminate) golden-orange pigment in the cortex. This pigment is called PHAEOMELANIN. High lift permanent hair color does not remove phaeomelanin, as it

is not sufficiently alkaline. In many cases, clients with lightest brown, fine hair, who have blue or gray eyes, can most easily obtain a blonde shade when a high lift blonde color is applied to their hair. Many clients who want to be blonde require application which has

more power...... Enter "Hair Lightener".. also known as bleach....

Ammonium Persulfate or a persulfate substitute present in bleach is the ingredient that

breaks up and eliminates this regularly unwanted orange pigment in the hair.. when a cooler,

lighter blonde shade is desired.

Hair Lightener (bleach) remains active in the hair for about two hours. HOWEVER, most of the lifting action takes place during the first hour of application... Many very expert salon pros

apply lightener carefully, and monitor the lifting action; as well as the client's comfort. They most frequently rinse and shampoo the lightener formula after 90 minutes of processing at room temperature. At times, a second application of lightener is required, particularly if the hair was black, very dark brown, or very thick.

Years ago, when colorists were required to lighten very dark hair to a pale blonde, they usually recommended that the client, instead, purchase a pale blonde wig. These very

intense lightening services often required several separate appointments, spaced three

or for days apart so that any scalp irritation would have ample time to recede. Clients were told that retouch of the "dark roots" needed to be done every 14-21 days in order to be successful, and for no "gold banding" to accur due to a root area that grew too far away from the scalp. "The shorter the root, the easier the retouch".....

When we test how natural black hair transitions to blonde we refer to how the lightener works in STAGES.. rather than in "Levels of Lift". Let's observe what happens when bleach is applied to black hair, and is allowed to process completely:

As BLACK color is bleached from the hair, the next "stage" of color change we see is

BROWN..., and as the lightener remains on this hair, we see that the next level of exposed pigment is

RED... And, as we allow the lightener to continue processing, we see that the red hair lightens to

ORANGE and then to

GOLD .. we note that hair can remain "stuck" at gold for a long time.. but we have more to do

so that after more time, the hair lightens to

YELLOW.. which is the color we see when we slice a lemon open.. not the skin of the lemon,

the lemon fruit. And, finally, as we allow the lightener to continue working on the hair, we

see that the hair reaches a pale color which looks like banana fruit (not the banana skin)! It

reaches a stage which is almost a beige-yellow-white. We call this stage

PALE YELLOW. So: We refer to the "STAGES" of lightening. There are seven stages of pigment in the hair: Black, Brown, Red, Orange, Gold, Yellow and Pale Yellow

I hope you have enjoyed reading this. If you find this interesting, share it with other salon friends. A "level' is smaller than a "stage'. lifing three levels equals lifting about one stage. Use whatever method that works best for you. Decolorizing hair with success is one of the most artistic and detailed actions we do at the salon.