Creating beautiful blonde hair is, in my opinion, one of a colorist's greatest professional
expressions! The Art of Blending is a balancing act. And before "just getting started",
there is much to observe and to consider. Discussion here does NOT include attempting to create pastel blonde shades on hair which has been dyed black, purple, dark red or dark
brown. Nor does this discuss removal of "fantasy" shades. (Those operations are separate
from what I share with our members here!). Let's consider changing natural brunette hair to light blonde.
After defining the current natural level of the hair, the colorist must choose the correct lightener and developer volume for the work at hand. My choice remains application of a creme hair lightener when I am lightening hair at both the scalp and the hair lengths, for an "all-over", global blending. The creme/oil glides onto the scalp and into those hair lengths easily. This is of key importance.. as very thorough, even, product application is of massive importance.
Depending on current natural level at the scalp, I mix the creme lightener with ten or twenty
volume dedicated developer.. Ten volume if the natural hair is lightest brown or darkest
blonde. Twenty Volume for deeper natural brunette hair. AND, I apply the root formula
FIRST.. Then, I immediately begin lightening the hair lengths, using my creme lightener
formula with thirty or forty volume developer. Here, taking 1/8*, fine, even sections is
critical. The finer the section you take, the easier and faster the hair will lighten. NEVER
place a client under heat when bleach is. in contact with the scalp. NEVER. Use a moist cotton to remove any lightener that may be on the ears, the back of the ears, the nape
of the neck or the face. Every 10 minutes, check through the hair for spots you may have
missed, and to see how things are "coming up". When the hair looks orange-gold DO NOT
PANIC! When you remove lightener on hair that is this color, the lightest "color" you will
create is a shade I call "Macaroni and Cheese"!!!!
There are a number of great creme or oil lighteners available now. Use your favorite.
Right now, I'm having great success with LOVELY LIGHTS CREME LIGHTENER.
t is mixed with it's own LOVELY LIGHTS DEVELOPER and remains activet and creamy for almost two hours (room temperature, of course!). Do NOT leave the client alone for more
than 5 minutes. Be assured that she is happy and comfortable. If she is burning. REMOVE
the lightener. Do NOT "wait for five minutes"... more on this later.
Due to the heat of the scalp, the hair close to the scalp will lighten to a yellow or pale yellow
stage long before the hair lengths lighten to blonde. THAT is OK. A yellow bleach out looks
like the skin of a lemon. a pale yellow bleach out looks like a banana.. the banana fruit.. not
the peel. When your client wants a super pale or platinum or white result, you MUST lighten
the hair to PALE YELLOW.... NEVER lighten to white.. by that time, you have burned the cuticle layer of the hair OFF of the head!!!! When the "root" area is developed, export your client to the sink and RINSE FOREVER with warm water. Shampoo twice with the most
gentle, "for blondes" shampoo you have. Rinse Forever. Condition very, very well. TELL
your client that she is not finished yet and that her hair lengths are still too orange/gold.
Gently detangle the hair. Towel dry well, and dry the hair about 75 percent. You are now
ready to tackle those hair lengths. First: Ask yourself: Does all of this hairlength need to be
lightened again with bleach? OR, might I highlight this hair heavily, with bleach wrapped or
painted into the hair lengths to create a blonde-on- blonde effect? In most cases, you will
mix a new batch of creme lightener, and apply to the hair lengths... omitting the scalp
area. In most cases, the hair lengths will transition to a light yellow stage in approximately
one hour. ... but YOU must strand test to see exactly where you are. When you believe that processing is complete, return to the sink and do precisely what you did before. Be SURE
to condition the hair well. Before selecting a toner, toning shampoo or conditioner, seat
the client and smooth hair in the fringe 100 percent DRY. Let the client see her hair.
Say nothing until she speaks. Only then can you calmly decide upon the toner (no lift, acidic), that you will apply to the hair.
Here is what you need:
TIME. DESIRE, COURAGE, KNOWLEDGE, A WILLING CLIENT, EXPERIENCE, ALL THE
PROPER PRODUCTS, and........ THE CLIENT WILLING TO PAY FOR THIS SERVICE
The Sistine Chapel was not painted in a day and was not painted with spray paint!.. I'm sure
you understand......... I welcome your comments! B