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Writer's pictureBeth Minardi

BEYOND "REFRESHERS". The New Generation of Direct Dyes

Like most of you, I have always been interested in ways of adding color to the hair, without the necessity of applying traditional permanent hair color. Because ALL permanent hair color is alkaline, all permanent hair color does have a "lifting" action. .. Even black hair color!

Black permanent color "lifts" just a bit as it DEPOSITS black color into the cortex! So,

I've been looking "outside the box" for more than thirty colorful years.


Today, we can look even further than the introductions of semi-permanent and Demi-permanent hair color. Let's think about how Cellophanes and Jazzing set the color

world on its ear all those years ago.. by using DIRECT DYES to stain the hair. That

technology set in motion a search for a variety of new ways to deeply INFUSE tone into the hair lengths.


FACT: Porous hair acts like chemically bleached hair. And, the more porous the hair, the more readily it will accept direct dyes that do not wash out after only a few shampoos. Here,

we will begin examining the wonderful array to options available to the experienced career colorist. The products I'm discussing in these next few sessions are FAR beyond what you

may have used in the past. These are not nice "cute" little "try the color until your next shampoo" options! These are SERIOUS and are very user-friendly to the colorist who understands precisely how they work. Brands like Evo Fabuloso. Overtone, Pulp Riot, RUSK, Pravana,

and Celeb brands are options you might keep in mind. Here, I'd like to start with a line

created by a true color authority. The company is CELEB, and there are two lines of color

refreshing shampoos and conditioners: GEMLIGHTS.. which range from lovely shades ranging from the deepest brunette, wonderful reds, and beautiful blondes. And VIRAL: for

the creative colorist who wants to go "beyond" on both pre-lightened (bleached) hair and on

porous hair, that's asking for a real KICK! These are fashion tones like reen, Vibrant Blue,

electric Reds, peaches, Oranges, Fuchsias, and more. Again, available in both shampoo and

conditioning forms. I've seen these at Sally Beauty, Cosmoprof, and and, (of course) on Amazon. To get you started.. without FEAR, I'm sharing a few shades of the Gemlights

options here:

For refreshing blonde hair.. never too dark and never "too much". These are NOT "CRAZY

TONES". but, for the client visiting for a cut or blow out today, whose color is FADING.. or for the retouch client who is "IN A HURRY" and has no time for a glaze. Here Is how I first got

started using Gemlights:

FLAWLESS DIAMOND is NOT like anything else. It is very clear, almost completely WHITE and does not "grab" purple or blue. Use it on a blonde who is feeling "brassy" or "dull".. The

highlights or "all over" pale blonde will appear more "white' and a bit brighter. Just great!


CITRINE - Do not fear the name! This is a very palest-creamy yellow. Very Pastel. I love using this at the sink on my pale blondes who want that sheer cornsilk blonde.. but NOT GOLD! Very sheer, creamy and soft... flattering child-like blonde tone as a lovely refresher that removes that "dull lackluster reflect we like to avoid.


RUBY - This selection is a true RED. It is NOT COPPER. Best to refresh those fashion reds that are level 5 (lightest brown) or darker. My hair is highlighted with lightener, and at times, I add extra red "punch by shampooing with RUBY. Salon Secret: For use on your lighter copper reds you can intermix 3 parts of Citrine with 1 part Ruby.. Mix well, apply to wet hair, lather, rinse and condition. More to follow! Comment or Ask anything you wish here on BethMinardiAllAccess.com. and THANK YOU for being a member of our colorful community! B


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