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‘COVERAGE’ of Gray.. Reality vs Perception

When gray hair is processed with a color formula ( category, level, tone, etc). The term ‘coverage’ is a matter of interpretation and perception.


For many salon pros, ‘coverage’ of gray obtained from a color retouch, means that every single hair is ‘covered’ to the exact same shade.. complete, no dimension or ‘shade on shade’ result. ONE ‘all-over, even color. We ALL have a few clients who expect this. This is most easily achieved via application of a permanent hair color formula which is the same level and tone of the hair which has not yet turned gray.


Example: A client visits you, asking for gray coverage. You observe that her hair lengths are brown. Her ‘roots’ are 50 percent gray (white) and 50 percent Level 4 — Light brown. You select your preferred brand of permanent hair color at level 4.. considering the tonal value of that shade. And, according to manufacturer’s instructions, you mix the color with the recommended developer. You apply and process the color. You have every reason to expect that the gray hair and the hair which has not yet turned gray, will develop to one EVEN, perfectly ‘covered’ brunette result. Note: I speak here of the retouch area.. and NzoT if the hair lengths, which should be addressed separately… as you know.


… Much more to say here… and I will do so later.


One word of advice: In an attempt to satisfy colorists who demand ‘perfect’, monochromatic gray coverage, almost every manufacturer has created NN shades, which are guaranteed to COVER GRAY HAIR! In my experience, these shades are very rich and have a heavy pigment weight… so they might ‘develop darker’ than expected. So, take that into consideration when selecting. … More in this important subject to come! I thank you for your membership here and hope to see you in class one day soon. B

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