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CREATING "Caramel"

Many of my clients ask me flatter their complexions by creating a hair color that

enhances their natural complexion undertones. While most of them take great care

of their skin and wear makeup, they prefer using a foundation that is sheer and more

translucent than they might have used previously.

Often, I meet clients who are medium brunette. They want to remain brunette, want to

cover gray, and understand that gently lightening and warming their hair.. with control, might create the flattering result they desire. That hint of warmth looks wonderful when combined

with the right skin tone!

These clients ask for something that's warm, yet never "red". Their complexion reflects

traces of golden, peachy or even "sallow", (often accompanied by warm brown

or warm green eye color).

I've been fortunate enough to achieve a very, flattering result, using a

permanent hair color formula mixed with twenty volume developer. While most

color manufacturer levels and tones vary a bit, I've enjoyed great experience by

using the following:

I mix one ounce of a level 4N (neutral), with 1 ounce of a level 7G (gold),

creating a formula which is slightly lighter than a level 5.

This color cocktail yields perfect gray coverage, a slight "lift" in the brunette hair, and a

slightly warmer, yet never brassy, final result. You're done! ..... However (optional)....

As you might remember, most of my clients ask me to create shots of

lighter dimension into the hair. So while my "root" formula is processing,

I place shots of blonde into the hair lengths. And, after shampooing,

rinsing and thoroughly towel-drying at the sink, I apply a "roots to ends" glaze

comprised of 1 part 9 Gold and 1 part 8 Copper liquid demi color.

I allow this to process for ten minutes. I love this rich, caramel shimmer that

is very easy to achieve!

Right now, you might finish this with a great blow out. And, suggest a bit of color on the eyebrows, (don't let them disappear!).... add a dash of warm red or copper-bronze lipstick. This provides "pizzaz".. a lift to the spirit and a super-flattering color statement your client will appreciate!

I look forward to seeing YOU in class! B

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What do you use for shot of blonde? I am assuming lightener since she is brunette, 20vol? wouldn’t it lift blorange? Glaze at room temp? Excited to try this, thank you.

Beth Minardi
Beth Minardi
Feb 25, 2022
Replying to

The current level and tone of the "blonde shot" must be taken into consideration. Usually, I mix powder lightener and 20 volume developer. If hair is Very Dark.. almost black... I try to very SOFTLY lighten the hair lengths. Put powder lightener in a bowl. In a bottle, combine equal parts of water and 5 volume developer. You will create a lightening formula that places only "kisses" of lighter hair into that DARK base. which you will Glaze at the sink if you see they are a bit "warm". Always look at the level fo the hair LENGTHS when you have a formula processing at the "root" and decide: what is the final color you want to achieve. Natura…

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