Creating "Cool" Light Brunette Color

When I first began studying color, I attended a major educational event where one of

the most frequently asked questions was "How can we lighten dark or medium brown hair to a cool (ash) brown with absolutely no brassy or warm tone?"

The star educator was a gentleman from Europe. He owned a well-known salon in

New York City which specialized in color. His answer was: "I always tell the client

that I must lighten her hair with bleach in order to remove all the golden-orange

pigment from the hair. After we shampoo and condition the client, we dry the hair and

apply a medium or dark ash blonde shade to the hair. In this way, the results are

completely cool. " ................. OK. The attendees asked for the precise technique,

and the educator shared the exact color shade he preferred to tone this pre-lightened

hair.

Did this work? Yes! In my opinion, was this shade attractive? Not really. BUT, colorists

all over the USA enjoyed using this with great success. Clients were happy, but most of

them would routinely set their hair, or would go to a salon for regular shampoos, retouches,

and conditioning treatments. Daily shampooing had not yet become completely popular.

Today's hair color chemists have provided us with great new shades that permit us to

deliver cool lighter brunette results without prelightening the hair. Take a look at the

color chart you have at your salon. Find the "Double Ash" or "Double Cool" shades

at levels 5 and 6. When applied to virgin hair at levels 1, 2 or 3, these modern Blue or Blue-Violet- based shades effectively lighten the hair as they cancel out (cover) any emerging

warm undertones. For at-home maintenance, color-bearing shampoos and conditioners help

clients maintain their shade in-between appointments.

MY ADVICE: When a client with very dark natural color visits me for her first appointment,

I advise using a level 5 or 6 "double cool" shade to heavily HIGHLIGHT her dark hair,

rather than doing an "all over" application. Very often, these lighter, yet soft brown tones

moving through her deep base shade look wonderful.. and are a great first step toward

that "all over" hair color change. The color wheel just keeps turning!

What do you think

about this subject? We'd love your advice on thie subject. Thank you for. joining

our private educational website for salon colorists. b .