"D". Demi. Deposit. Darken. Developer
The introduction of DEMI-Permanent hair color happened more than thirty years
ago. It's wonderful performance is truly a GAME-CHANGER. I believe color manufacturers
feared that it would minimize purchases of their line of permanent hair color. So, most
stated that demi colors would "blend" rather than "cover" gray hair. But, when mixed,
applied and permitted to process sufficiently, the gray coverage is WONDERFUL. Demi
Permanent technology creates DEPOSIT INTO THE CORTEX WITHOUT LIFT of
the hair which is more deeply pigmented than the shade of demi color applied.
Example: A client has 50% gray and 50 percent level 3, medium brown hair. Virgin
hair. If we mix and apply a demi-permanent hair color at level 5, lightest brown, the
gray hair will cover to a level 5 and the hair which is level 3.. remains unchanged (unless that hair is super - porous. HOW FABULOUS.
Personal story: At my NYC salon, I had a new client who was brunette and who was becoming gray.. about 40% gray. She had never colored her hair.. She was afraid or
the entire hair color "thing" but knew that the gray was not flattering. I applied a
level 6 Warm Neutral Demi Permanent shade to her hair. So, she remained a brunette
.. with what looked like hundreds of dollars worth of rich, deep blonde highlights!
TAA DAA! Hundreds of my colorist friends continue using demi permanent hair color
to cover gray when no "lift" is desired. Frankly, the results (my opinion) are better than
those achieved via application of permanent hair color. .. I could write a book on this.
I asked my "Color Brother" Charles (Buddy) Dudley, of Charles David Salon in Hanover,
Ma. to share a few formulas he uses to cover gray... using L'Oreal Richesse---- I'll share
one here and others on our Facebook Group Page for colorists. Please note that
I have used Clairol's Second Nature, Shades E.Q. Wella Color Touch, Goldwell's
Colorant---Rusk Deep Shine Liquid Demi and now. BEAUTY FUSION PHYTO TECh
Color, mixed as a Demi-plus shade. Here is a great, rich lighter blonde formula
Buddy has so kindly shared with us:
OK. Hair is 70 percent gray and 30 percent level 6, Dark Blonde.
3/4 tube of 9.01 Richesse- plus 1/4 tube of Richesse- 8.0 and 15 Volume Developer .. A delicious
creamy Nordic Blonde. process for 30 - 40 minutes at room temperature, checking for
deposit about every 15 minutes. I could literally write a BOOK on how much I enjoy
using DEMI-PERMANENT hair color in almost every single situation where I need to
change hair color to a shade deeper than it currently is... and that means gray hair,
and pre-lightened or faded hair. These demi-permanet options are only a part of
what we cover in my IMMERSION INTO HAIR COLOR Sessions. See you soon:
Pittsburgh, Pa., Flanders, NJ. and Sarasota, Florida! B