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BLONDE shades of permanent hair color at levels 8 and lighter have an amazing ability to lighten hair. As hair color genius, Randy Rick once said to me, "Just remember, a level 8 shade is 80 percent "LIFT" and 20 percent "DEPOSIT"...." WOW! What a great way to

explain what color can do. ALSO: Chemists evaluate hair color levels when they observe the performance of a new shade. When they note that a level 8 blonde shade covers 100%

white (gray) hair to a level 8... They are satisfied!

So, when colorists create blonde results, they sometimes wonder if their brunette client can be transitioned to a beautiful "single process" blonde. SOMETIMES.. the answer is "yes".


Does your client remember having blonde hair when she was a young child?

Is the client's hair fine or no more than medium in texture?

Are the client's eyes blue, gray, or cool green?

Is the client's skin free of "orange-looking" freckles?

Is the client's hair currently free of brown, red or dark hair color?

Is the client's current natural level level 5 (Lightest brown or lighter)?

IF your client's answers are YES to all the questions above, HOORAY! She will most probably be a FABULOUS "single process" blonde. If any of these answers are "no", I

recommend that you pre-lighten and tone the hair.. avoiding "regret" hours later when

the hair is an unattractive shade of "blorange"..... Your experience here counts.

Here's what works best for me, when

I create single process blonde color results:

For highest lift with sufficient tone, I intermix equal parts of a level 12ASH with a level 10N

and, according to manufacturer's mixing instructions, I combine with 40 volume developer.

Next: Separate the hair into TINY sections.. 1/8 of an inch works best. Be sure to apply

the color formula carefully.. assuring that each section is completely covered with the


I set my timer for one hour. After 10 minutes, go back and check the hair for any areas that

do not look as if they are lightening... be sure to re-saturate those areas with color. Ask your

client if she is comfortable. I approach the client every 10 minutes or so to assure her

comfort and to asses how the hair is lightening. Remember: Areas of the hair which are

not saturated with the color formula will not lighten well. So.. keep checking.

Remember, While this is RARE: Burning, itching, turning "red"... signal a potentially

serious situation. (As you most probably have not conducted the required patch test, which most of us cannot do 48 hours before every single retouch appointment).... DO NOT

allow the client to continue processing. Discomfort means that the color must be immediately rinsed with warm water, gently shampooed, rinsed again with warm to cool water... Remain with the client until she feels better.. and offer her a glass of cold water.

Be professional and caring, and avoid any heat or chemical treatments at this time.

If all goes well, and your client has processed for one hour (this is only my guideline as your

manufacturer may suggest 45 minutes).... thoroughly rinse, shampoo and condition the hair.

High lift permanent hair color is ALKALINE. You MUST use an after- color conditioner so

that the hair is returned to it's naturally acidic state. Rinse thoroughly, detangle gently and

proceed with your styling service.

PS I love using sheer pale, beige or soft platinum color bearing conditioners on the hair lengths... But that information is best saved for another post here on AllAccess! B

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Feb 03, 2022

These are rules to live by. I think of my early attempts many moons ago and so wish this descriptive was made available.


Jan 18, 2022

I love your suggestion of mixing a 12 and a 10. My manufacturer suggests 1 to 1.5 for level 10 and 1 to 2.5 for 12. Ho do you advise I mix these?


Can you please suggest an after color conditioner to bring the hair back to an acidic state? I don't always glaze...Thanks


Thanks Beth, I got in.

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