While we are in the business of making people happy, we must also be aware of what
is.. or is not possible to achieve due to the current condition of the hair. As hair color
becomes more deliberately diverse, we may have new clients wishing to completely
change a very dark or very bright shade into something lighter.. or all together different.
TWO types of current hair color are among the most difficult to change without over-stressing
1. Hair which has been dyed black, deep purple, darkest brown, Violet or dark red,
2. Hair which has been previously bleached (chemically lightened), then infused with a
direct dye, creating a fashion tone of pink, orange, brilliant red, purple, teal, blue or green .
While there are a number of dye removers and bleaches posting that they can completely remove dark of extremely bright color, your reputation is based on being able to do this without damaging the client's hair.. and then being able to create the PRECISE NEW
SHADE the client desires. As we learned in beauty school: NEVER MAKE A PROMISE YOU CANNOT KEEP! So, before spending hours working on a result you may not be able
to create with success, I recommend that you conduct the five minute test I am sharing here:
PS: At times the client will be absolutely certain that her hair was never bleached, and that
an intense fashion color was applied "only one time" Or, she states that only a Demi-permanent color has been used in her hair.......
YOU CANNOT BE COMPLETELY SURE THAT THIS IS THE CASE. But you can find out!
I recommend that you use the Malibu Color Removing Packs developed to remove
semipermanent or demi-permanent hair color. I use two packs and follow
the manufacturer instructions. After rinsing and drying the hair, you MAY be able
to see that the color has lightened significantly or perhaps, almost completely
If so, you are fortunate and your next steps will be easier to achieve because
you have learned that the former color was rather easy to remove from the hair!
HOWEVER, let's refer to those clients who fall into the categories I list above,
I recommend that you conduct this FIVE MINUTE TEST, I'm sharing here.
THE FIVE MINUTE TEST: Mix an ammonia-based powder lightener into a bowl, using
forty volume developer. You will need a tint brush and two pieces of foil or the barrier of
your choice. Seat and drape your client. And, section out a small strand of hair in the back
of the head.. just below the crown. Separate the strand into foil, and heavily coat the hair
with the lightener mixture. Repeat this with another section located at the top/side or crown of the hair.. near the face. Set a time for 5 minutes.
After five minutes, use towels and a spray bottle filled with water. Remove the lightener
from these strands. Towel dry the strands and compare them to the hair located near those
selected strands. WHAT was the result? DID ANYTHING HAPPEN? You are doing this to learn whether the current hair color can be lightened, (EVEN SLIGHTLY), after five minutes
of exposure to a strong lightening solution. Don't expect a HUGE change, but do hope to
see a BIT of pigment change.. a LIGHTER shade than the hair which you did not "test".
If you do see some change, you can be assured that you will be able to create a new shade
which is lighter than the current color. You can proceed with your very carefully-attended and tested color removal project. However, assure the client that the precise shade she desires
remains your intended goal... BUT that you can lighten the hair only so much without causing damage.
If your lightening project on this type of client generates HEAT coming off of the head or
if the client reports discomfort, burning, or itching, I recommend that you IMMEDIATELY
rinse the hair thoroughly with tepid water, gently shampoo, condition and dry (warm
dryer only). While you nor the client will be delighted with the results, you can offer an
"off the scalp" color removal application as you move through this process. In very few
cases can the hair be lightened to yellow or to pale yellow.. without severely compromising
the health of the hair.
And, after the final color removal process, gently rinse, shampoo, and rinse
the hair again THOROUGHLY. Condition lightly and dry the hair 50 percent.
DO NOT USE a permanent hair color to create a new tone in the hair. Instead, I strongly
recommend that you use an ACIDIC Demi-permanent shade to effectively tone this
pre-lightened hair. Because the hair is porous, choose a Demi-permanent formula
which is a bit lighter and warmer than the desired final shade. Let me know your favorite
way to conduct this very important and "delicate" hair color change.. Comment here as
we'd love to learn from YOU! Stay tuned as a new video is coming your way SOON! B