Listed here are "rules" I set for beginning colorists as they started working on their own chair at my salon in NYC. These were some of the "basics" to provide "training wheels" which
could later be adapted or removed as a Minardi Salon colorist gained experience:
When retouching a very SHORT regrowth, use an applicator bottle. Take 1/8 inch sections in order to create perfect color retouches and 100% gray coverage.
When covering gray hair. using permanent hair color... mix with 20 volume developer
and process at room temperature for 45 minutes.
When. performing "no lift" gray coverage services, use an alkaline demi color formula mixed with low volume developer. Process under heat for 20 minutes, then continue processing at room temperature for
an additional 20 minutes
To assure 100 percent gray coverage, use a formula level 8 or deeper,.. or if using a
new NN shade, a level 9 shade can create good blonde gray coverage.
When creating high lift "single process" blonding results, using permanent hair color,
process the color at room temperature for ONE HOUR.
When using an acidic "no lift" demi color like SEQ, Colorance, Deep Shine, HueColor or BeautyFusion, you can effectively "BLEND" gray hair. Process under a pre-heated source for 15 minutes. Then, allow to continue processing at room temperature for an additional 15 - 20 minutes before rinsing, shampooing and conditioning
When toning pre-lightened hair using an acidic demi color, towel dry the hair thoroughly.
Apply the toner to the scalp area first.. then carefully bring the formula down through the hair lengths and into the ends. development time is usually 15 minutes.. BUT check the hair every 5 - 7 minutes, as highly porous hair can develop faster and darker than you
might imagine.
SPEAK to the client as you color her hair. Tell her what you are going to do. Then, tell her what you are doing. Then tell her what you just did, and that you will be checking with her frequently during her development time.
NEVER process permanent hair color or bleach under a heat source if the product is in contact with the scalp. This can cause a very serious reaction!
THESE are a few of the guidelines I used at my salon. I'm certain you have your own. They help us keep what we do consistent as we work to buld a "branded", successful, happy clientele.
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