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IMPORTANT SCIENTIFIC INFORMATION

Career member colorists here on our page have a very deep interest in how hair color works.

Thank you.


I listen ALOT! Speaking with our members here, with chemists, and with color experts

who communicate directly with chemists, in manufacturer labs. Let's discuss "lift" which is really the only "permanent' effect of permanent hair color.


Any color product that has the ability to lighten the hair's natural color, is ALKALINE in

nature. This property allows the color molecules to interact with the developer and to

soften and penetrate into the hair's cortex (where natural color melanin is located). For

many years, salons could rely upon permanent hair color and hair lighteners to do

everything... as no real semi or demi permanent colors existed. Clients enjoyed their

new lighter or brighter shade, but accepted the uncomfortable presence of ammonia

"fragrance".... Let's face it..... NOT PRETTY!


Smart manufacturers decided to create 'non-ammonia" hair color... wonderful (my opinion) to create just enough alkalinity for a liquid or creme semi or demi color the ability to penetrate

and to cling to both the outside of the cortex and the inside of the cuticle.


REMEMBER THIS: "Non-Ammonia" does not mean "super gentle and non-alkaline". Read

the ingredient listing! Many products contain MEA. Monoethanolamine. This is a liquid alkalizer which can be beneficial. But, Remember, MEA is an ammonia substitute. It is ALKALINE! Unlike ammonia which is a. gas, MEA remains alkaline throughout the coloring process. Ammonia, however, is a gas.. and leaves the hair and absorbs into the air as

the hair is colored.... So the strength of the formula decreases as the hair processes.


I share this because, even today, color chemists share that the very best alkalizer in permanent hair color is AMMONIA. And, new color chemistry offers ammonia-based products which no longer..... smell like ammonia. The choice is yours. Let me know your thoughts. B.

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5 comentários


rayrosestyle
rayrosestyle
09 de jul. de 2022

I ❤️ ammonia and PPD! It’s true! My old haircolor line that I used for years eliminated PPD. I noticed more of my guests reaching for my tail comb to scratch with. Last summer I made the switch to a line containing PPD. My guests are so much happier and comment how much more comfortable with my new and upgraded haircolor! (Upgraded as I call it because its a whole lot less expensive and out performs color with me+!).

I love the pop that ammonia gives! Especially with my reds! MEA just seems to have a flat finish to me.

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Beth Minardi
Beth Minardi
09 de jul. de 2022
Respondendo a

YES... Seems a more "vivid". less violet red pops. MEA is great when we need to both lift and to deposit... Ammonia appears to be the winner here! Thx RAY! I hope to see YOU in class soon.. discussing all of this matters.. and the number of deeply experienced voices makes class so much more important! B

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Sandy Hamilton
Sandy Hamilton
08 de jul. de 2022

A few years ago, my client came in for her next scheduled hair color appointment and her hair was much darker than the formula I used. In fact, I thought she colored her own hair in between appointments! She did not. I figured that I didn't rinse the (MEA) color properly and it continued to process. I never made that mistake again! I had no idea at the time that could happen.

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Beth Minardi
Beth Minardi
09 de jul. de 2022
Respondendo a

YES! Well, in ALL CASES, we need to rinse FOREVER, shampoo, RINSE FOREVER AGAIN, and then condition. BUT, because MEA is a liquid.. it just "keeps going".. and does not dissipate as time goes by.. so things can just keep working. And, interesting: Many clients have no irritation issues with ammonia.. but seem to be, in some cases, sensitive to MEA! thx so much for commenting! Please share our site with your colorist friends. B

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