MASSIVE CONFUSION - Let's Discuss Color Developer (Peroxide)

I'll start this color lesson with a bit of history. FIRST: The invention of modern permanent hair color by LOreal founder, Mr. Schiller: Paris, Early 1920's.

Schiller invented "permanent" hair color shades which could both LIFT (lighten a degree. of melanin), located in the hair's cortex. Simultaneously, as it DEPOSITED

new color which would cover gray and remain "stuck" inside the cortex permanently. This did not mean that the color would never fade, but the color was long-lasting and did not rinse out of the hair during shampooing. Remember, previously, earlier types of color did not

penetrate into the hair; coated the cortex and the cuticle and, after several applications

took on an unnatural, less-than-shiny result. Plus it washed out completely after several shampoos.

Schiller's permanent hair color was mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Peroxide energized the oxidative (permanent) hair color molecules and created the energy needed for the product to effectively create change in natural hair color. Scholler learned that mixing color with TWENTY VOLUME developer (called 6 percent developer in Europe), created a

formula which was most reliable and which "behaved" as he desired for predictable lift and

deposit and for covering gray. You will remember that years ago, the chief reason women chose to color their hair was to COVER GRAY.

Mr. Lawrence Gelb and his wife Joan Claire Gelb, visiting Paris from the USA, met with Mr.

Schiller and purchased his color formula, to manufacture and sell hair color to salons in America. At that time, remember, people colored their hair at a salon rather than using a

a kit for at-home hair color.

The peroxide (developer) used as THE STANDARD so that the shade would lift and deposit

color as predicted, as well as to cover gray 100 percent, was TWENTY VOLUME DEVELOPER.

As time went on, colorists and manufacturers of color realized

that by lowering developer volume, a shade would deposit color a bit deeper in level than "standard". And that by raising developer volume, the color would lighten the hair a bit more than when it was mixed with 20 volume developer. Mixing higher volume developer with permanent hair color was used, predominantly, to slightly boost the lifting action of blonde

shades. Doing this was useful when attempting to create a blonde color result on pigmented hair. HOWEVER: IT is primarily the LEVEL of the shade which creates the level of "lift" in a color formula, rather than the volume of developer used.... which is secondary.

Here's a great way to understand lift and deposit of permanent hair color: A level 8 (light blonde) shade is 80% LIFT and 20% deposit. A level 4 (light brown) hair color is 40% lift and 60% deposit.

Join me for class: Tulsa Oklahoma, October 6th, 2025. Limited class size at host salon

BEAUTY BY MINDI.