Choosing the hair color type which works best for you and your client is your professional choice.
About thirty five years ago, MEA began being used as an alkalizer in some demi permanent
and permanent hair color brands chiefly due to the negative "fragrance" associated with ammonia. AMMONIA continues being the most efficient alkalizer. because of its very
small molecular weight which allows it to penetrate (with the chosen hair color) deeply
into the cortex. Ammonia has a molecular weight of 17 while MEA's molecular weight
Because of MEA's large molecular weight, several less than optimum color situations can develop when MEA is used as the. oxidizer in permanent hair color. High lift blonde shades
might not always lighten sufficiently, and very vibrant red shades can develop to shade
less vibrant than desired. Some MEA-based shades do not cover gray as well.
Because MEA is a liquid, and ammonia is a gas, ammonia leaves the hair and dissipates into the air during color processing. So, MEA can cause scalp irritation, unless it is
rinsed EXTREMELY well and then shampooed with an acid-balanced shampoo.
AMMONIA nor MEA are fundamentally bad for the hair. Just remember that the amount of MEA necessary in a color formula is MUCH higher than that of Ammonia. MEA containing
color contains about 6 - 10 percent MEA in the formula, while only 1.3 - 3.5 percent of
Ammonia is the usual percentage included in a given color formula. In both cases, the
lighter the shade, the more MEA or AMMONIA the color must contain.
AMMONIA penetrates the cortex more efficiently than MEA. Because MEA is not volatile and remains in the hair, even after the hair color has been removed. Any residual MEA left in the hair can cause the color to darken and dull. Some color companies using MEA as
an alkalizer counter act this by directing that special shampoo containing ammonium
hydroxide (ammonia bubbled through water), be used when removing the hair color.
MEA has a pleasant fragrance, and is preferred for that reason... client and colorist comfort. .MEA is a weaker alkali catalyst, while ammonia, which is a gas, "escapes" from the hair,
therefore, an ammonia "smell" is usually present.
NOTED BY COLOR CHEMISTS: The color results of ammonia-based permanent hair colorr
remain more predictable than MEA-Based hair color, and provide more longevity, vibrancy and superior gray coverage. Of course, the choice is yours.
An remember some of the most popular demi-permanent hair color shades contain
BEAUTY FUSION PHYTO TECH COLOR is ammonia- based. ..However the shades contain NO MEA, NO PPD, NO ALCOHOL and NO RESORCINOL. Derivatives from
plant oils protect both the scalp and the hair.