top of page

MEA vs AMMONIA as a ALKALIZER For Hair color

Choosing the hair color type which works best for you and your client is your professional choice.


About thirty five years ago, MEA began being used as an alkalizer in some demi permanent

and permanent hair color brands chiefly due to the negative "fragrance" associated with ammonia. AMMONIA continues being the most efficient alkalizer. because of its very

small molecular weight which allows it to penetrate (with the chosen hair color) deeply

into the cortex. Ammonia has a molecular weight of 17 while MEA's molecular weight

is 61.


Because of MEA's large molecular weight, several less than optimum color situations can develop when MEA is used as the. oxidizer in permanent hair color. High lift blonde shades

might not always lighten sufficiently, and very vibrant red shades can develop to shade

less vibrant than desired. Some MEA-based shades do not cover gray as well.


Because MEA is a liquid, and ammonia is a gas, ammonia leaves the hair and dissipates into the air during color processing. So, MEA can cause scalp irritation, unless it is

rinsed EXTREMELY well and then shampooed with an acid-balanced shampoo.


AMMONIA nor MEA are fundamentally bad for the hair. Just remember that the amount of MEA necessary in a color formula is MUCH higher than that of Ammonia. MEA containing

color contains about 6 - 10 percent MEA in the formula, while only 1.3 - 3.5 percent of

Ammonia is the usual percentage included in a given color formula. In both cases, the

lighter the shade, the more MEA or AMMONIA the color must contain.


AMMONIA penetrates the cortex more efficiently than MEA. Because MEA is not volatile and remains in the hair, even after the hair color has been removed. Any residual MEA left in the hair can cause the color to darken and dull. Some color companies using MEA as

an alkalizer counter act this by directing that special shampoo containing ammonium

hydroxide (ammonia bubbled through water), be used when removing the hair color.


MEA has a pleasant fragrance, and is preferred for that reason... client and colorist comfort. .MEA is a weaker alkali catalyst, while ammonia, which is a gas, "escapes" from the hair,

therefore, an ammonia "smell" is usually present.


NOTED BY COLOR CHEMISTS: The color results of ammonia-based permanent hair colorr

remain more predictable than MEA-Based hair color, and provide more longevity, vibrancy and superior gray coverage. Of course, the choice is yours.


An remember some of the most popular demi-permanent hair color shades contain

MEA.


BEAUTY FUSION PHYTO TECH COLOR is ammonia- based. ..However the shades contain NO MEA, NO PPD, NO ALCOHOL and NO RESORCINOL. Derivatives from

plant oils protect both the scalp and the hair.

117 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All

WHAT Is ME+. ??

ME+ dye technology, by Wella was created to minimize possible NEW allergy or sensitivity to hair color. It is present in many shades of Wella Kolestone Perfect Hair Color. This ingredient is a sci

SALON USE ONLY -- But IMPORTANT

Several manufacturers offer very effective, very low Ph shampoos intended for use ONLY at the backbar.. when lightener or color are being removed from the hair. These exist usually at a ph of around

‘COVERAGE’ of Gray.. Reality vs Perception

When gray hair is processed with a color formula ( category, level, tone, etc). The term ‘coverage’ is a matter of interpretation and perception. For many salon pros, ‘coverage’ of gray obtained from

留言


bottom of page