Many of you read the very interesting post we shared on my Facebook Group
Page. Erin, a great hair, makeup and beauty blogger found some interesting info
which was written down by several of the salon pros who did Marilyn"s hair.
.... How interesting that, in the past, colorists might share tidbits about
how they colored someone's hair.. but they chose to keep the formulas a
SECRET. "Special Silver Bleach, and mixtures with "very hot water". were
some of the items named. Several very talented women worked on Marilyn's
hair.. which they both RELAXED!! and BLEACHED!! It was noted that Marilyn's
hair was in rather fragile condition, and that hair pieces and wigs were often
added to the hair. Remember: The shorter the root, the better the blonde result" !
The most detailed infomration I heard about this hair was from the INCREDIBLE GEORGE
MASTERS who was a master at both hair and makeup. From Clairol, I learned that Geroge
used a very strong lightener: Clairol Ultra Blue Hair Lightener, which was a a blue oil
bleach, mixed with powder boosters (persulfates) and twenty volume developer. At times
Marilyn's hair, which was dark, was root retouched every five or six days.. using a long Q Tip or the Clairol bleach applicator bottle which had a very small hole at the top of the applicator
tip! That PRECISE, "Root Only" "NO OVERLAP" application took time to complete, and took a very long time to process -- up to two hours at room temperature. The hair processed
to an almost white.. the palest of pale yellows... a beige, soft yellow white. (As you know, when you bleach hair to white, you have completely removed the cuticle.. which
translates to TROUBLE). As George processed the bleach, Clairol Condition or another
deep creme like Wella Kolesterol was applied to protect the hair shaft. I do understand
that Marilyn might chat, read and drink champagne as her hair processed. I was told
that her toner formula was "COOL WHITE", sometimes mixed with Xtra Light A... which
were ammonia toners! OUCH! This info was third party, so I am not sure. The shade Ms. Monroe desired was called "Pillowcase
White"................. What a great piece of marketing! I love that name!
As YOU KNOW, in the 1950's and 60's, hair was shampooed, conditioned and covered with
a setting lotion. It was then wet set with rollers and/or pincurls, and placed under a hot hood
dryer. When the hair was baked 100% dry, the stylist would use a brush to "break the set", and would then backcomb (tease) the hair into the desired sculptured shape. Because the hair
was highly exposed to bleach, it would easily mold into shape!!!! After the coiffure
was perfected, the client's hair was SPRAYED with a LACQUER hair spray... until it would
no longer "move" and would "stay good" for three to five days... NO COMBING, NO SWIMMING, NO SWEATING, NO BRUSHING...nothing, unless the client went to the salon foa a mid-week "comb out" which offered no shampooing or wetting of
the hair, but a refresh of the teasing, combout and spraying. The hair was washed
once a week.. and the entire styling proces began again. Some of those amazing
styles worn by Marilyn, Jackie Kennedy, Ann Margaret, Priscilla Presley,, and so
many others.. truly were works of ART. a SALON needed to create these. And, hair could
be kept super pastel because it was rarely brushed, wet, or disturbed in-between salon
color retouches, when the hair was also conditioned while the bleach was on the roots and
after the toner was shampooed from the hair. Yes. Women were different. The world
was different. Most women had a weekly "standing" appointment with their hair dresser.
The hair cut was not as important.. the roller set, teasing, and styling was important.. as
was the color.. done in "private" because "nice women" did not admit to coloring their
hair. Vidal Sassoon changed most of that. women wanted a GREAT CUT, they wanted
healthy hair that MOVED. THEY wanted to MOVE, To Run, To SWIM! They wanted that great monthly hair shaping, great hair conditioning, special at home hair care product,
and hair that moved. Even when they set their hair, the static, non-moving hair became
a think chiefly relegated to the past. The evolution was a good one, but GREAT stylists still
know how to do this tease and syle work.. particularly updo's which, when done properly
can be so modern, sexy and "young" looking.
And so it goes. To read the complete
Marilyn "thing", go to my FREE Facebook Group Page. Ask to join. I will admit you. Visit
Facebook Groups: "Conversations with Top Color Professionals by Beth Minardi".
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