Let's talk about a client who has dark brown or medium brown hair, with almost any percentage of gray (white). When you are asked to cover the gray and to SLIGHtLY
lighten the brown hair, without creating a "red" or "warm" result. Here's what I
recommend.. Regardless of the brand of permanent color you are currently using.
Mix EQUAL PARTS of a level 3 (medium brown) Neutral shade with a level 5 (lightest brown) Blue or Blue-Violet based shade.
This creates a color formula of level 4. I recommend mixing this with your brand's
recommended percentage of 20 volume developer.
TAKE YOUR TIME... and apply this formula, taking fine, even sections of hair. Then, set your
timer for 45 minutes and process at room temperature. MANY brands recommend only 30 minutes of processing... and if you have done your client's hair previously, and are CERTAIN
that her color always processes well after only 30 minutes... OK! Just remember that those
last 15 minutes allow the tonal value of the color you are using to really "kick in". Your
reputation as a FABULOUS COLORISTS relies partly on the client telling you that "ever since I started seeing you for color, my color never fades as it did before".....
This Friday, I'm off to my new home in Houston, Texas. ... A Very Different Place than my beloved NYC.. BUT..... A wonderful new chapter begins at my new salon home, KHARISMA Salon. And, I continue to work on beginning my academy for Post Graduate Hair Color Studies. Stay tuned here for color advice. Please comment. And, I will be reaching out
from WAY "Down Town"! B
Where ever you go, you are a bright light shining , inspiring all of us . Texas is lucky to have you 🌟🌟🌟🎉🎊❤️❤️❤️