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PREDICTING FINAL COLOR LEVEL -- When Using Permanent Hair Color

Sometimes, every color instructor we follow shares their own way of helping colorists to best

be able to predict the results they will obtain after applying a shade of permanent hair color.

For just a moment, let's go back to how we learned to cook when we were younger. And,

perhaps, as children, we watched this easy science "experiment" take place when our mom

was cooking dinner.

Let's pretend we have a large bowl we are placing on the kitchen counter. We have filled

it with lots of ice and lots of water. The water is COLD...

Now, let's pretend we have a pot of water which we bring to a boil on the top of the stove.

NEXT: BE CAREFUL! Use a potholder, and pour the boiling water into the ice water.


The ice water "heats up" as the boiling water comes in contact with it. And, that boiling water

rapidly cools off when it hits the ice water....


Let's pretend that dark natural hair color is ice water. And, let's pretend that the lighter permanent hair color is the boiling water.

.. the resulting result/temperature we will obtain is not as dark as the natural color nor is it

as light as the level of the permanent hair color we apply. It is somewhere IN BETWEEN.

Does this make sense to you? I think it might. For a moment, PLEASE consider two things: Natural Color Level...... and Level of the lighter permanent hair color shade applied... Let's

NOT think about volume of developer, please.

Higher volume developer will create a BIT more "lift" and lower volume developer will create a BIT less lift....... Think of the color as the motor of a car, and the developer as the gasoline.

We can't turn a Volkswagen Beetle into a Ferrari by using high test gasoline.......

Consider this little post here when you mix color. And, to avoid "regret", please do NOT believe that mixing a high lift shade of permanent hair color with 40 volume developer can

transition a dark brunette into a pastel blonde!..... But, I'm sure you already know this. Please share this with your salon pals, if ever they are in doubt. XOX, B!

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Beth Minardi
Beth Minardi
Oct 25, 2021

Planning Color Classes: My days of IMMERSION INTO HAIR COLOR: Looking ahead toward the new year, 2022: Dallas, Austin, San Antonio (perhaps), and Boston. Stay in touch here on BethMinardi-ALLACCESS as well as on our Facebook Group Page: Conversations with Top Color Professionals by Beth Minardi

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