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It is best to avoid trying to accomplish both maximum "lift" and gray coverage in

a single process! Often, colorists attempt to create blonde gray coverage and maximum

lightening in a single process. So, they formulate a shade using a level 9 or lighter shade

of permanent hair color.

When gray hair covers to a level 9, 10 or lighter.. the perception is that the gray DID NOT

COVER.... the sheer, light shade looks as if it is still gray. fAnd, if there is any hair which

was not gray prior to the application of the formula.,, It might look brassy, or a warm

golden orange...

Best advice: Gray coverage looks best when a formula which is the same level, or one

or two shades lighter than the "pigmented" hair is applied. And, assure yourself of coverage

when you create a formula of level 8 or deeper. B

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Well, what about our clients that want to be lighter because they grow in white and a level 7 or darker is too much if a line of demarcation… even if we hi lite every 2/3 times? They want to be an 8/9 base… low ammonia? Glaze? What?..

Beth Minardi
Beth Minardi
09 dec. 2022

Use a level 8 permanent hair color formula. 8N mixed with 8G or 1 3/4 oz 8N with 1/4 oz 9G with 20 volume developer. Roots only for 45 minus at room temperature.

OR, if they are almost ALL WHITE, use a demi creme.. level 8 mixed with 5 volume developer. Develop under heat for 20 mins and then continue developing at room temperature for an additional 20 mins. Apply the formula to the roots ONLY. I hope this helps you. this is what I do. Thank you for participating here on our website for colorists! B

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