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PROCEED WITH CAUTION

While on-line video education can sometimes provide good instruction and inspiration, please remember that NOT ALL posts are completely accurate! The magic of video allows

for off -camera edits and corrections which can make various color changes look much

easier than they actually are! And, not every "influencer" is completely transparent when

promoting a brand or the precise results obtained from its application.


RIGHT NOW: See the current cover of NEW BEAUTY Magazine, featuring the beautiful

Andie MacDowell! The trend toward TRANSITIONING color-treated hair to a shade of silver GRAY can create a gorgeous change which is also a great source of revenue.

PLEASE protect yourself: Evaluate carefully before promising a client a fast, easy or achievable color change to gray. Your client's color history here is of massive importance.



FACT: When a client has enjoyed years or months as a salon-created brunette

or redhead, attempting to sufficiently lighten the color of the hair lengths is not often easy.. and is sometimes.... IMPOSSIBLE. Hair lengths do "hang on" to repeat color applications,

whether it be a permanent color formula, semi-permanent or demi-permanent! Repeat

application of color during retouch appointments creates ongoing deposit of dyes which

do not often leave the hair completely. The WORST thing a colorist might attempt here is

to attempt one or more "all over" (global) applications of bleach to the entire head! In

99 out of 100 cases, the "root" area of the hair will lighten to blonde.. with the hair lengths

changing to an uneven, spotty MESS of varying red, orange, and strong gold strands.

Additional applications of lightener MAY -- or MAY NOT provide further lightening, and

most often the resulting situation is hair which is burned to a crisp and ready to fall off!


Here's what I recommend: Approach the client with enthusiasm and with care. Explain

that our first step is to TEST their hair to observe just how much lighter the hair can

reach without damage. Also, be clear about expectations. Ask yourself: Just how

much time do I have to create this change today? or will this change

require several appointments.

I've learned that promising a complete change- to -gray appointment might take eight to

ten hours... (NOT GREAT UNLESS AGREED UPON IN ADVANCE). Best option:

Set aside TIME to properly: STRAND TEST and to proceed only after seeing

precisely how much pigment can be safely removed from the hair. My test involves

placing three finely-woven selected strands, wrapped in foil, on each side

of the head.. right above the ear. I use powder lightener mixed with 30 or 40 volume

developer. I set a revolving heat source on medium and check the hair every 15

minutes for changes in depth, in hair condition, and for client comfort.

What do you see? Is this hair able to lighten to the palest yellow after processing

for no more than one hour? Shampoo, condition and dry the client's hair. Show

her what you were safely able to create. When the lightened strands are very

very light and lighter than golden yellow HOORAY! You can then proceed with a

"back to back" foil placement around the face frame. After wrapping, processing

and shampooing, you can apply an acidic no-lift silver white shade to tone

the hair, and, perhaps, follow up with an application of a color-containing light

blue conditioner. You and your client will be on the way to that gorgeous silver

she has been dreaming of.


You can see how I created this change at one of my recent color

classes when you visit my FREE Facebook Group Page for colorists:

"Conversations with Top Color Professionals by Beth Minardi". The video is

there when you scroll down. AND, on Monday, June 10th, my one hour FREE

ZOOM class will explain this fashion trend in detail. To sign up for the link, visit;

www.Artego.us.com. I appreciate your participation here on our website for

career hair colorists. Gratefully, Beth


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2 Comments


Beth Minardi
Beth Minardi
4 days ago

Bev! You are so important to our world of beauty! Thank you for your passion to learn and to teach. And Thank You for joining other career colorists here in my website! Stay in touch! B

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Beth

I am so happy to read your posts . These are packed with information to help us cosmetologists gain understanding of the science inside our passion to master beautiful color.

I’m a learner , everyday and year I want to keep learning ,To stay excited and expand the experience I provide my clients. Education in ,education out . We are teachers in many ways !

Thank you ! What a great mentor you are


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