Always remember that manufacturer color classes are very helpful... AND the brand
teaches you to use WHAT THEY SELL! Supposing you are faced with a situation
which looks challenging, and you are unsure of the best product to use.
MY OPINION ONLY: While no one needs every single shade a brand creates, I strongly
urge salons to stock a basic supply of DEMI-LIQUID hair color. Most are acidic, work
with Low VOLUME developer, and can perform numerous services as you deal with a
compromised, faded, porous hair shaft.
This week, one of our salon friends met a client who is getting married in a few weeks.
Her five inch "root' area of natural light brown hair suffered with the attached orange
blonde long lengths of hair. The bride begged to have her natural brown shade restored
to those hair lengths.
FAST AND FABULOUS: Remember: Porous hair ALWAYS "grabs" darker and drabber
than healthy hair! Here, with this client we are dealing with a level seven (medium blonde,
orange) hair shaft. So, there is no need to replace missing orange.. as there is none.
I recommended SEQ or another liquid, acidic demi color .. mixing 8GN with five volume
developer. This is the first step .. and at times, the only thing required.
Apply the color. Cover the hair with a plastic cap. Place the client under a pre-heated source
for 20 minutes. Allow the hair to cool a bit, then rinse, shampoo, condition and dry a section.
This orange hair will now be neutralized AND the hair will probably (due to porosity) process
to a level five (Lightest brown)... OR it MAY develop to a level four... depending upon how porous the hair is. If more depth is required, mix equal parts of 8GN and 6G.. again with five
volume developer. Apply and process as before. The client's hair will be restored to precisely what she desires.
Some people advise you to use permanent hair color. And, that choice is up to you. But,
think for a moment: All permanent hair color has the ability to both LIFT and to DEPOSIT
color into the hair.. AND it is ALKALINE! WHY do we apply an alkaline formula to porous hair???? Not great... AND, let's not think that mixing permanent hair color with low volume
developer creates a demi-permanent formula. It does NOT. ... because it is alkaline. Lower
volume developer DOES NOT make the permanent hair color formula less alkaline.
Permanent hair color is a fabulous tool.. when you need to both LIFT and DEPOSIT
new tone into previously uncolored hair. I look forward to seeing you in class.