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STEP TWO: Dealing with GOLD OR ORANGE "ROOT" when attempting BLONDE

FACT: NO "PASTEL" or "PALE PLATINUM" Toner will create a beautiful pastel result

here. NOTHING IS MAGIC. I suggest that you realize that there are TWO ways to

solve this issue.


FIRST: You must calmly inform your client that you have more work to do because your

first pre-lightning did a good job removing MOST of the unwanted pigment in the hair BUT

that more work needs to be done. I hope you have refrained from SCRUBBING the root

area of the hair. Be sure to rinse this completely in cool water. If you have an alkalizer

neutralizer... or even some vinegar to massively dilute in cool water, I suggest that you apply

this to her root area, allow to remain a moment, and then, very carefully re-rinse the hair in

cool water once more. Then, apply a SMALL amount of high quality conditioner to the palms

of your hands. And, with care, work this conditioner throughout the hair lengths. After you are certain that the hair has been exposed to the conditioner, you can very gently wash your

hands, and, using a wide toothed comb, GENTLY detangle the hair lengths.


TIME TO CHOOSE: You can reapply a gentle creme or oil-based lightener to the scalp. One I like is RUSK DEEP SHINE CREME LIGHTENER. You can also use the Joico creme lightener or the lightener of your choice. DO NOT APPLY POWDER LIGHTENER TO THIS

already lightened scalp area! Mix according to manufacturer instructions and start at the center part line and at the crown and down the sides of the face. Then, move on to the back

being careful to NOT RUSH, and to take fine even sections. Give the client LOTS of ice

water to drink and keep her comfortable. If she says she is "burning: or if you see her ears,

neck or face turn red... you MUST take her to the sink and using cool water rinse, shampoo

and condition the hair. BUT... If she is OK.. keep that cool water for drinking coming her way.

OBSERVE HER. It might take an additional hour to prelighten the hair to palest, almost "white" hair. When this happens, I recommend that you rinse, shampoo and deeply condition the hair. I'd ask her to return the next day for the toner...as the scalp has been through a lot

in one day. Style her gently... no super tight braids or updo's tonight.. and avoid or minimize

spray; You will see her tomorrow.


OR..When the hair is a funny orange or yellow, you can erase that and create a dark ash blonde "root" which you can "melt" as you continue working with the client after this base shade has been created. In this case, I would choose a demi CREME color. 1 3/4 ounces

of 7.l. or 7ASH. plus 1/4 ounce of a 5.0' a five neutral. Mix this equal parts with a five volume

creme developer. and apply to the entire golden-orange root area. After 20 minutes, comb the

hair ... root to 3/4 to the ends to create softer deep blonde shots into the hair lengths. Then

after 5 minutes, accompany the client to the sink for a shampoo, condition and blow dry. My

guess; She will love it. NEXT TIME: Decide; will you retouch this OR process that lightening regrowth to precisely what the client needs; A Pale Yellow BLEACH OUT. FOR YEARS COLOR COMPANIES SAID 'DON'T WORRY. YOU CAN COVER YOUR ERROR

WITH THE PASTEL TONER. TO THIS DAY, I HAVE NEVER SEEN THIS WORK SUCCESSFULLY! ENJOY THE ART OF BLONDING! IT IS A JOY! B

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