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BEFORE you begin mixing color, have you examined the current level and

tone of your client's ROOT AREA? If not, you may be in for a very unpleasant


NEVER THINK that applying a shade of MODERN, BRIGHT RED hair color

to white hair will create a "soft", "natural-looking", result! The color WILL

COVER the gray.. but because that hair is white.. without pigment the hair

will be VIVIDLY BRIGHT RED... Not what you and the client desires!!!!

When creating a lovely red shade on gray hair, or on hair more than 20 percent

gray INTERMIX the desired red shade with a .0 (NEUTRAL) shade at the

same or similar level as that red shade. 50% gray//50% neutral. 20% gray,

20 percent neutral. 80% gray.. 80 percent neutral. Use 20 volume developer

and process those gray roots for 45 minutes at room temperature!!!!

The color you see in a photo is almost NEVER the color you will achieve when

applying it to YOUR client!!!! The difference between do it yourself hair color

and salon hair color is Y O U! B

Next class: Pittsburgh, Pa. October 16th. Register here on our page when you click "Group Classes and Events".

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Sep 18, 2023

Hi Beth,

With my warmer reds( apricots, strawberries, Tahitians, and bright coppers) I’ve had great success using the “G” series for grey coverage. I use the “N” series more in my auburn, mahoganies, and burgundy formulas. My reasoning? Many manufactures N series actually finish quite cool, and can mute the vibrancy of the finished shade. Some manufacturers have answered this by rolling out “NW” series. These work great when available. But if not, warmer based reds seem to stay brightest and more vivid with the addition of gold for grey coverage. Curious to hear of your related experiences and thoughts

Beth Minardi
Beth Minardi
Sep 18, 2023
Replying to

Thx so much! I agree with you! And NW shades have really helped. A few brands have gold shades with only yellow-gold and no ‘soft tan’ … so I recommend them less often. But YOU are on the right path! Thank you SO very much for your very valid comment and for being a member of our website for career colorists. B

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