As color professionals, we are sometimes required to lighten a client's natural brown
hair.. without causing unwanted "red" undertones. THIS IS NOT AN EASY TASK!
I've learned that before attempting this, it is extremely important to precisely evaluate the precise depth, and texture of the hair. After doing so, always consider that you will have
more control of the finishing results when you choose a permanent color shade that is
no more than two levels lighter than that natural brown hair. I recommend that you choose a
shade which is primarily a BLUE shade of ash. Blue-Violet, Violet, or Blue-Green shades
also work. I love blue-based shades for this purpose. Why? Because BLUE is the coolest
color on the color wheel. I believe it is the ultimate drabber... just my opinion.
Mix your formula with 20 volume developer, and apply the color, taking very fine, even sections. Avoid under-processing the color, as while lift and deposit are simultaneous, much of the formula's grabbing action "kicks in". after the first 20 minutes of processing at room temperature.
Of course, some colorists choose to bleach the hair to yellow, and to later apply an
ash-based toner... and this can work. HOWEVER, this process takes longer... and must
be very carefully managed, toned properly and conditioned. The choice, as always, is
up to YOU.
Join me for class in Connecticut.. All Day! Monday, November 1st. 10AM - 5PM, and stay
tuned for my events being planned for various areas throughout the USA. 2022. B!
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