SWATCH BOOKS TODAY

When comparing swatches attached to older charts with those swatches displayed today, I

see a very visible difference. When I look at swatches showing natural level AND color results displayed, on hair levels one to five... I see very, very little difference in depth. For

example, a level 2 swatch looks almost identical to both a level 1 and a level 3 swatch! Many shades seem to be DARKER and there is VERY LITTLE change in depth between

these brunette levels. WHY did this happen? Do you observe the same or a simllar situation?

MY THOUGHTS: SADLY, as time has gone on, manufactuers learn that salon pros complain about poor gray coverage, AND they also report colo fading or that a shade created a tone that was tooj bright at the roots. Please let me know if you think this

might be correct.

MY HISTORY: How fortunate I was to have been enrolled in a one month full time course of hair color study which included lessons from color chemists, top color experts from

the organization, AND from lectures and demonstrations provided by some of the most successful salon colorists

in the USA! OLD "out of style" color brands were shown to work beautifully. OF course color quality and good shade definition were required. Here are some of the measures taken to insure slow or "never fade" results, fabulous and complete gray coverage,

and shade development at the root that was not too bright or too "hot".. All this happened

successfully, even before manufacturers believed that they needed to darken everything so

that salons would be more successful... Again, this is just my opinion.

Colorists were carefully trained so that they could PROPERLY analyse the client's current hair color LEVEL and PERCENTAGE of gray. Thoughtful and very clear color consultation

took place before color was formulated and mixed. The colorist could predict rather than

to guess what the final result would be. This required focus, knoweldge and the ability to understand color basics

Color application was considered an art form. 1/8 to 1/4 inch sections were parted through the hair at the scalp so that every single hair was properly and completely covered with color formula. NO JUSH JOBS with giant sections being picked up, leaving uncolored areas in the hair: FACT: Poor, sloppy, "just get the stuff on" application is the key factor when "poor

gray coverage" is an issue.

Hair Color Processing- When color is not allowed to properly process, this reminds me of the results a cook experiences when a roast needs to be in the oven for three hours. Everyone at the dinner wants to eat NOW. They are in a hurry. So the cook takes the roast,

which is not finished cooking, out of the oven. The results are simply NOT THE BEST! THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THIS ROAST...It was not permitted to cook sufficiently!

RUSH JOBS benefit No One.

To completely develop, permanent hair color requires 45 minutes in contact with the hair,

at room temperature, to properly do their "thing".. lift, deposit tone and cover gray.

Hi-Lift blonde shades are completely developed after one hour of development time

Demi-permanent shades are fully developed after 20-40 minutes, depending on type.

So, there is a lot to learn BEFORE a new colorist begins applying hair color. A clear knowledge of what level looks like A clear understanding of how the tone of a color product will reat with the tone ofof the hair. Perfect color application, Proper development time, and careful post color rinse, shampoo and conditioning make up the important steps leading

to beautiful color resutls that COVER GRAY, Do Not Fade (or fade very slowly),and which both lift and deposit as expected.

As always, your comments are most welcome. To schedule class with me, please send

an email or text me.

bethminardi@gmail.com. 646-468-9802 I will design education tailored to your needs.