TALKING ABOUT "TONERS"

Clients are sometimes confused because they think we can lighten their hair with

a toner. A modern TONER adds tone to the hair. It softly deepens and deposits selected tone into bleached and/or porous hair. These toners have just enough alkalinity to penetrate

very delicate pre-bleached hair. Most are mixed with five volume developer and processed

at room temperature (on damp, towel dried hair). Toners can be ready to remove anywhere

from five minutes, up to 15 minutes. depending on the hair's current condition and porosity.

When choosing your toner formula, be sure to remember that porous hair usually "takes"

color darker and/or drabber than you might expect.

Several manufacturers have embraced the former the success they experienced in the past, creating blonde alkaline shades, (high lift), mixed with a variety of lower volume developers.

This type of toner promises to lift (lighten) as it deposits blonde tone. These are permanent hair color formulas and are alkaline. These conventional toners were used (with care) for

many years. Some colorists continue using these with success -- both on highlighted hair

and on globally lightened hair. They apply carefully because the alkaline toner can GRAB

rapidly on the more porous hair mid-lengths and ends. So, beginning toner application to

the scalp area first; then bringing the toner up into those fragile ends can take place and

be watched Very Carefully. until it is time to rinse, shampoo and condition.

PS: I had the honor of assisting Doug Marvaldi as he did hair and makeup for Zza

Zza Gabor. Her pale, almost white color was done by the genius George Masters.

She told me he came to her house every two weeks. She told me her toner was

Clairol Creme Toner

Extra Light A and Cool White.... applied to her bleached hair. She was so nice to

me. I will never forget that... a great experience and a wonderful memory. PLUS I

learned more about hair color!

The decision is, of course, up to you! I prefer to use less aggressive toners which have no

ability to lighten the hair. I work very hard to lighten the hair sufficiently during the bleaching

process. BLONDING IS AN ART. Patience, manual dexterity, a good eye, being BRAVE

and scheduling sufficient TIME to create good blonde haircolor -- all this -- is required

So, when a client asks for "just a toner" STOP. TIME TO TALK:

Sit with her as you both look into a mirror. Ask her what she wants her hair color

to look like after you color her hair. If she wants to be lighter... she does NOT need a TONER. Usually, she wants more highlights OR wants the entire base of the hair to be

lighter.

Meet me in class Monday, March 13th for a full day of IMMERSION INTO HAIR COLOR

or on April 16th and 17th, at America's Beauty Show, Chicago. I'm conducting a Two hour VIP color conference and demonstration. One on Sunday and another (same content) on Monday. We will enjoy a private classroom suite, catered breakfast or lunch, and diploma.

Each session limited to fifty people. Wishing you continued success and abundant joy! B