As you may be observing, it appears that almost every color manufacturer is introducing
a new type of permanent hair color which processes in ten minutes. Like bonders and
other new color options, I believe that ten minute color creates another useful salon tool. Only you can decide what is "right" for your business. Here, I'm sharing how I believe
these shades might fit as a part of your color dispensary.
First: At times, clients coming in for a cut or for a blow dry/style, enter the salon in need
of a root retouch .. for which they have not scheduled. These are often very busy people
who don't spend significant time evaluating their own hair. And, when you suggest that
it is possible to QUICKLY erase those gray or "in need of color" roots prior to cutting or
styling the hair, ten minute color might be the perfect color option. Key considerations include
your careful evaluation of the current level and tone of the regrowth area, percentage of
gray and the level and tone of the previously colored hair lengths. Most ten minute color
brands offer an "N" shade for covering gray completely. In my estimation, and from what
I have learned from our members who have used various ten minute brands, these do
tend to be cooler toned "N" shades. So, I like to mix 3 parts of my chosen "N" shade with 1 part of a warm shade at the same or similar level... In my opinion these offer a very attractive
result which while not "warm" are a very rich, less "icy" neutral/natural tone.
And: As those of you who attend my classes have learned, I place dimension into the hair
shaft immediately after finishing the retouch application. This works beautifully, and goes a long way toward effective time management. So, when a ten minute permanent shade is
applied, we have no need to worry that the "roots" might not be covered when we are ready
to rinse out the highlights and/or lowlights. Don't worry! These ten minute shades are NOT
progressive and WILL NOT continue developing to a darker or drabber shade at the root.
You can conduct simultaneous multi-dimensional techniques with confidence!
HIGHLIGHTING VIRGIN HAIR: When I presented color education at Rusk's San Antonio event, I demonstrated the new Rusk In Ten shade -- 10S. (LEVEL 10, SAND). This reminds me of a rather GV (gold-violet) high lift shade. My lovely model's hair had been
highlighted almost one year ago, and had almost completely grown out. AND, she was a natural blonde, with fine hair at a Level 7 - Medium blonde. We mixed one ounce of 10S Rusk in Ten, with 2 ounces of 40 volume creme developer and wrapped the hair using my
new "Foil Painting" technique. After wrapping the last foil, we processed the hair at room
temperature for about 12 minutes. The results are gorgeous, and we have posted them
on Instagram and on our Facebook Group Page for Colorists: Take a look by going to Facebook Group Pages: Conversations with Top Color Professionals by Beth Minardi.
In addition to Rusk, Joico, Schwartzkopf.. and soon, L'Oreal .. are all offering ten
minute color options. Remember this: These shades are very useful additions to most salon dispensaries. They do NOT replace the traditional permanent hair color shades we stock
in our salons. So that they can process in ten minutes, they are powered by a higher pH alkalizer... in some cases, by ammonium thyoglycolate (perm solution). I advise that these
NOT be applied to previously lightened, porous or fragile hair lengths, and be restricted to application on virgin hair.. particularly in retouch situations. And, please: You already know
my answer to questions regarding making permanent color into demi color by reducing developer volume.. My answer is NO. No permanent hair color, mixed with low volume developer, "turns into" a Demi-permanent formulation. If you're currently using new
ten minute formulas, let us know your favorites. We look forward to learning what works
best for you.
I hope you'll join us on Monday, March 28th at our all day IMMERSION Into Hair Color Class. We are meeting at the beautiful Charles David Salon in Hanover, Ma.