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The Desire to Create That ELUSIVE Level Eight Final Color Result

Almost every day, for many years, hundreds of salon colorists have attempted to

lighten hair to a "creamy, never-brassy" level eight (light blonde) using a single

process hair color application. In too many cases, this is less than successful, and

might look like "taxi cab yellow", D.I.Y. hair color.

As we all know, lighter shades of hair color do not contain a high percentage of

color deposit. Shades lighter than level eight tend to chiefly lighten (bleach) the hair.

As my famous hair color friend, Randy Rick shared with me over a wonderful

lunch several years ago: "A level eight permanent hair color is about eighty

percent "lift", and twenty percent deposit".

When attempting to lighten lightest brown (level 5) or dark blonde (level 6) hair to a

level eight, we FAIL when we think applying a level 8 shade to either of these natural

hair colors will achieve a level 8 result. As you know, applying a level 8 permanent hair

color shade to level six hair will result in a level 7 final level.. a place where natural

golden or golden/orange tones LOVE to LIVE! .. Even using an ash shade does not assue

us of a neutral color result.

Other colorists attempt to create a neutral level 8 by applying a level 10 or a level 12

shade to the level 5 or 6 hair. The tonal contribution of these shades is rather weak,

so, this can create a result that is between a level 7 and 8..

again, transitioning to a rather "brassy" golden shade soon after that salon appointment.

Without resorting to pre-bleaching the hair, I prefer to lift level 5 or 6 hair.. with control,

to about a level 7, rather than to a level 8. During processing at the root, I pick up selected strands around the face, and through the crown... I highlight them, using lightener,

thereby creating a "blonde-on-blonde" effect. And, those "roots" do not fade to an

undesirable "too warm, too yellow" tone.

Right now, I enjoy using a formula I create using Beauty Fusion Phyto Tech Color:

1 1/2 ounces of 8.0 (8N) mixed with 1/2 ounce of 9.11 (9Blue). That small percentabe

of 9.11 effectively DRABS unwanted warm tone, and does not measurably lighten

the level 8 formula. I'm using 20 volume Oxymilk and 2 teaspoons of Color Booster.

When we apply a level 8 formula to level5 hair, we create a level

between level 6 and 7... PERFECT BASE for highlights. When we apply a level 8

formula to level 6 hair, we create a lovely level 7 which does not reflect a weak, warm

or brassy tone.. again, perfect for highlighting.

Here's the easy thing to remember: When the hair is more than 80% gray (white), we

can, of course, use a level 8 shade. The gray (white) hair will process precisely to

a level 8! Exactly what so many of us are looking for.

Please feel free to share YOUR favorite "create an eight" hair color formula. Learning

from one another here is one of the very BEST ways to grow! I look forward to seeing

you in class. Are YOU joining me in Pa? NJ? or Florida? if so, Do let me know.


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