For many colorists newer to our profession, there seems to be confusion regarding how products work .
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (Developer) is acidic, at a pH of 3. which is quite acidic. Think of
peroxide as the fuel that activates the 'motor" inside an oxidative hair color or lightener.
Hydrogen Peroxide ACTIVATES .. gives energy to the color or lightener so that work can
begin.
BLEACH (Hair Lightener) has the ability to remove both brown AND ORANGE Pigment
from the hair. It is able to DISSOLVE pigments and as it is permitted to develop, it
is able to transform very dark hair to a light shade absent of orange. Bleach contains
ammonium per sulfate or an ammonium per sulfate substitute, which is highly alkaline,
at a pH of about 12. As this highly active formula develops in the hair, it softens (or
melts) the hair to a degree of porosity as it very effectively bleaches out both natural
or synthetic color.
Mixing shades of High Lift Permanent Hair color with 40 volume developer, produces a
permanent hair color that creates the highest possible lightening in a single process.
HOWEVER, this formula is NOT A BLEACH! And, although this formula is highly alkaline
it does not have the ability to completely remove orange pigment from the hair.
Attempting to create pastel blonde shades on hair which is level 5 (lightest brown) or
deeper, using a high lift permanent hair color formula, almost ALWAYS restyle in FAILURE.
While the hair will be much lighter, it usually lightens to a shade that looks like a color
I call "Macaroni and Cheese".
B
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