THE "FINISH At The FRONT"

My last post shared how to effectively begin creating a pastel blonde result on natural

hair color lightest brown to dark blonde. Rather than applying a high lift shade of permanent

hair color, we are using creme lightener, as in almost every single case, the client requesting

pastel blonde will require our application of cream lightener to that scalp area, rather than

a pastel shade of color. Why? Because successfully creating a truly pastel blonde requires

that almost ALL of the gold pigment present in the hair's cortex be removed from the hair so

that a VERY cool, pale blonde lightening can be achieved.

Our previous work started with an application of cream lightner mixed with 20 volume developer to "zone one"... hair located at the scalp, and reaching about 1 1/2 to 2 inches into the hair lengths. We have done that and finished working on the back of the head. After rinsing, shamppoing, conditioning and drying the hiar, we are left with a very light back of the

head, and with very light roots at the front of the head. Let's begin creating a very dense

population of pale blonde highlights into the front of the head.. the crown, sides and face-frame. Again, you will need to PRESS the powder lightener formula into the selected strands by using foil or mesh. Attempting to paint in the highlights will not provide the pressure necessary to facilitate the lightener's ability to completely envelop.. therefor lighten,

those hair lengths.

Mix your poweder lightener using thirty of forty volume developer.. doing so after evaluating the current level and tensile strength of the hair. I prefer to begin working from the top/back of the ear, wrapping foils very closely together, up to the crown of the head. I repeat this

on both sides.. remembering that less hair in each foil guarantees the best possible lifting

action. Repeat doing this on both sides of the head, making sure to wrap all the way up

into that back center portion of the crown.

Next, we have reached the front of the head. The root area at the faceframe and the entire

crown area have already been lightened globally during our previous actions working throughout the back of the head. I prefer to select strands I part off on opposing angles, working via weaving the hair, and placing the selected wrapped sections very close together.

I begin working right at the front and bottom of the face frame area at the ear. And, I vary the

directions of my sections: One at an angle. The next wrapped horizontally.. making sure to

wrap the hair at the faceframe, including hair gright behend the face.. all into the same foil or mesh. Keep in mind that fewer hair strands in each foil will allow for the cleanest, lightest

"lift". Repeat this on the other side of the head. And, after doing so.. check the first side you

wrapped. You may evaluate that this side is ready.. or allmost ready to rinse.. protecting that last side from being disturbed with water of shampoo at the sin.. Bring both sides to palest

yellow, almost white.

Now it is time to very, very completely rinse the hair with warm water. I recommend using a

acidic shampoo, lathering and massaging the scalp well. I then add a bit more water to the

hair and continue working these looser suds through the hair. Now it is time to RINSE THE HAIR VERY, VERY WELL.. for about five minutes.... to ensure that the Ph of the wet hair has

been neutralized. Doing so assures that your pastel toner will be fade-resistant.

After conditioning and detangling the hair, rinse again. Towel dry and gently detangle.. This

is best done at your chair rather than at the sink. With your towels or drier, gently remove

about 50 percent of the water from the hair. Then, apply your toner formula. I recommend using an acidic liquid demi formula.. applying, staring at the scalp (root) area, using an

applicator bottle. After saturating the entire scalp area, work the toner formula up into the first two inches of the hair.. and process for fime minutes. Next, continue applying the tone

into the hair lengths.. working until about 7/8 of the way down to the hair tips. Omit the tips. Process the hair again, for five minutes. Bring the toner down into the hair tips and immediately take your client to the sink where you will again rinse thoroughly, provide a light

yet effective shampoo lather. Rinse, condition, rinse again. and escort your client to your

chair. It is time to dry and style the hair.

About the toner: You will always enjoy an "avoid regret" formula using a level 10 Blue or silver based toner mixed with Clear and 5 volume developer. I like using Redken SEQ

10T, Clear and SEQ Color processing formula.. again, the toner choice is yours.

Creating this CELEBRITY LEVEL pastel blonde is labor inensive, time consuming.. yet very effective. Your very VIP client will be thrilled. You will be exhasuted but happy. As you see,

it is not a good idea to schedule other clients while you are creating this. Protect yourself, your work and your client by assuring that you are properly scheduled. The retouches here willbe very easy... but that is anothe story. Beth