As most of us are aware, we are directed by manufacturers to avoid using salon hair color
to cover gray or to adjust the color of the eyebrow. When this directive was issued by the
state of New York years ago, clients became VERY UPSET when we told them we could
not "do" their brows. So! Here is what many of my colorist friends shared with me:
When the colorist walked away after applying the color, the client asked for a tissue.. (or retrieved one from her purse).... When she believed that no one was looking, she
put her index finger into her root area, smooshed a bit of color onto her finger.. and "did"
her own eyebrows! Perhaps you noticed that.
Here's what I learned many years ago as I began my experience in the world of beauty:
Noted makeup guru, Douglas Marvaldi, my mentor, studied painting before attending
beauty school. He told me that the eyebrow has a HUGE effect on how the person's
face is perceived. In fact, 1/3 of the impression made by the facial features is the result
of the shape and color of they eyebrow.
When we see a person who is even a few feet away from us, the eyebrow should not
"disappear".. which happens as we age. Usually, it is the outer corner of the brown that
thins and disappears first. And, in most cases, the brow starts showing signs of graying in
the area near the bridge of the nose.
Of course, the market is flooded with all types of brow makeup right now. And, to help
a person look their best, the brow should be at the same depth or a BIT DEEPER and
COOLER in tone than the hair color. Consider for a moment, the blonde celebrities
and models we see on social media. MOST everyone of them has a brow color which
is NOT pale blonde.... deepest ash blonde looks great. Natural redheads look best when
the brows are a bit browner rather than being a flaming red. AND, just think of all the
celebs (men and women) who have chosen to "go gray".... the BROWS are almost NEVER
gray. Even the women on YouTube channels sharing how to look gorgeous with gray hair..
do NOT have gray brows. And, "silver foxes" like Harrison Ford, Sean Connery, and others
.. do not have GRAY eyebrows. The brow, when correctly groomed and colored, plays
an important part in one's overall appearance.
Do I color my clients' brows: YES. When the brow needs color, and the client WANTS that
gray covered or wishes for the brows to remain visible, we color the brows with CARE.
The eyes are closed and we use a Q Tip or a disposable mascara wand. We then "clean"
any area surrounding the brow, with a clean Q Tip and watch the client CAREFULLY! And,
at the sink, with the head BACK, we first wipe the brow with white coil cotton, and then
re-cleanse the area with damp coil cotton (water), and then with a very, very mild shampoo
solution... then we rinse with cool, clear water on a cotton coil....
Color certainly makes a wonderful difference. I know this application is not approved of
by our industry directors.. but the reality I live in requires that I address this as safely and
as professionally as possible.
PS: PRE- REGISTER today through November 30th for my IMMERSION Into Color Class, Monday, February 7th, Dallas, Texas. By doing so, you'll save $70 off the full tuition of $395.00.