top of page


As you know, Phaelmelanin, is the naturally occurring golden-orange pigment residing

in the cortex of almost ALL human hair. Deep and medium brunettes may look "neutral"or

"cool". but apply lightener (bleach) for twenty minutes...... I BET you will see the exposed

orange/red/gold "brassy" tone..... THAT is the phaeomelanin you are seeing.

ONLY BLEACH (rather than high lift permanent hair color) will REMOVE phaeomelanin

from the hair completely.

AND, after we have removed that warm pigment, the hair can most easily continue lightening

to blonde. Only then can the colorist choose the correct blonde toner to finish the blending service.

NOW: Let's think IN REVERSE: We are looking at blonde hair. The client wishes for us to

create a new brunette shade on this light hair. OK. brown color is missing.. BUT. that necessary Phaeomelanin, the "building block" back to brown, must be replaced into the hair

either before or ALONG WITH the brown shade we are depositing into the hair.

So: "PHAEO".. love it, hate it, but realize that in many coloring cases YOU, the Salon Colorist will be required to deal with it! ... Don't you just LOVE this STUFF?

Classes coming up: August 17th, New Jersey. September 10th, Oregon, October 15, Boston. Stay tuned here for registration.


72 views2 comments

Recent Posts

See All

WHAT Is ME+. ??

ME+ dye technology, by Wella was created to minimize possible NEW allergy or sensitivity to hair color. It is present in many shades of Wella Kolestone Perfect Hair Color. This ingredient is a sci


Several manufacturers offer very effective, very low Ph shampoos intended for use ONLY at the backbar.. when lightener or color are being removed from the hair. These exist usually at a ph of around

‘COVERAGE’ of Gray.. Reality vs Perception

When gray hair is processed with a color formula ( category, level, tone, etc). The term ‘coverage’ is a matter of interpretation and perception. For many salon pros, ‘coverage’ of gray obtained from


Where are you teaching in NJ?

Beth Minardi
Beth Minardi

Hi Kim. I will be teaching at ENTOURAGE SALON in Flanders, New Jersey on Monday, August 14th. 10AM until 5 PM. Luncheon and diploma included in tuitions. Registration is up here on our page.. and on my Facebook Group Page: Conversations with Top Color Professionals by Beth Minardi. I'd love to see you at this very special day designed to provide career-boosting information for every colorist attending. Seating is limited. I look forward to seeing you in class. Beth

bottom of page