As you know, Phaelmelanin, is the naturally occurring golden-orange pigment residing
in the cortex of almost ALL human hair. Deep and medium brunettes may look "neutral"or
"cool". but apply lightener (bleach) for twenty minutes...... I BET you will see the exposed
orange/red/gold "brassy" tone..... THAT is the phaeomelanin you are seeing.
ONLY BLEACH (rather than high lift permanent hair color) will REMOVE phaeomelanin
from the hair completely.
AND, after we have removed that warm pigment, the hair can most easily continue lightening
to blonde. Only then can the colorist choose the correct blonde toner to finish the blending service.
NOW: Let's think IN REVERSE: We are looking at blonde hair. The client wishes for us to
create a new brunette shade on this light hair. OK. brown color is missing.. BUT. that necessary Phaeomelanin, the "building block" back to brown, must be replaced into the hair
either before or ALONG WITH the brown shade we are depositing into the hair.
So: "PHAEO".. love it, hate it, but realize that in many coloring cases YOU, the Salon Colorist will be required to deal with it! ... Don't you just LOVE this STUFF?
Classes coming up: August 17th, New Jersey. September 10th, Oregon, October 15, Boston. Stay tuned here for registration.