The POWER Within a Tube of HAIR COLOR - What I Learned from Chemists

Over the years, there's been some confusion regarding how hair color behaves. Very popular

instruction, I observe, focuses on peroxide volume being the key driver attached to

how color "lifts" (lightens) hair as it deposits. My instruction from chemists and my years

of salon experience point otherwise.

Here are the facts that have worked for me, and which I present when teaching hair color--

regardless of the brand I am demonstrating. NOTE: Yes, peroxide volume DOES affect

a color formula's ability to lighten the hair. HOWEVER: This statement is INNACCURATE:

"Ten volume developer creates one level of lift. Twenty volume developer creates two

levels of lift. Thirty volume developer creates three levels of lift and Forthy volume developer

creates four levels of lift:." ... Not really true........

The key, most influential power of "lift" in a color formula is the LEVEL OF THE COLOR

NOTED ON THE CONTAINER. Here is how chemists identify and name a brand's

Level: Let's use, as an example a shade "LEVEL SEVEN"... Medium Blonde. When

the chemist believes she/he has created a level 7 shade, that shade is tested on a

swatch of natural gray (white) hair. The color being tested is mixed with twenty volume

developer (the standard), and processed at room temperature for 45 minutes, at room temperature.

When rinsed, shampooed and conditioned, and when the white hair has transitioned to a

level seven... The new shade is defined as being a level 7.. medium blonde.

And, when this shade is applied to natural hair which is a level seven, the result

will be -- level seven... with tone, rather than depth being affected.

Mixing this shade with ten volume developer will SLIGHTLY deepen the outcome, and

mixing this shade with a higher volume of developer will provide SLIGHTLY more

lift... But we cannot pinpoint this change as being one exact level of difference in the

result. It is PRIMARILY the level of the formula that works to create the final level

of a shade.

After color is tested in the lab, performance is next tested in the manufacturer's color

testing salon.. where the shades are evaluated on human models who come to the salon

for color services. Every shade is tested for performance in both level and tone.

This type of information is demonstrated and tested during my IMMERSION INTO HAIR

COLOR Learning Sessions. I hope you will join me sometime soon. Our next seminar

happens in Annapolis, Md. on Sunday, September 29th. DoubleTree Inn. Class size is

limited to 100 salon color professionals.

Beth