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I am often reminded of the challenges we face as we attempt to create delicate pastel

tone in the hair. Performing this color result is not always 100% successful. And, doing

so may require several appointments in order for us to reach that desired angelic pastel


This morning, a dear colorist pal wrote me. She had attempted to create very white, platinum

blonde highlights, working on very thick, coarse, dense, brunette hair. After processing the

highlights, rinsing, shampooing, and thoroughly towel drying the hair, she applied a Redken

SEQ Titanium shade.. and both she and the client were truly delighted with that pastel, cool


The client called today, saying that after shampooing her hair, the white was "gone" and the hair was yellow. OK. several things might have gone wrong here. My first response includes the following:

Perhaps the Glaze/Toner formula was not deep enough.. OR... it was not permitted to properly process sufficiently. I took a wonderful SEQ class in NYC about a year ago and our

instructor shared that many colorists do NOT process SEQ for a sufficient amount of time. She recommended formulating with care, and processing for 20 minutes (on damp hair) at

room temperature.


.. and this is the ugly part: If the hair reached only a golden or yellow stage, there is NO WAY to obtain a lasting, truly pastel "white" tone on the hair. While we must NEVER pre-lighten hair to white, when attempting to create platinum/white.. the hair must be pre-lightened to

PALE YELLOW... which is the color of a banana.. not the SKIN of th banana. but the banana

itself.. that almost white/beige/sheer yellow. This makes the hair very pale, porous, fragile, an

able to accept a true pastel blonde toner. If YOUR client thinks her hair is gold or too yellow

the most labor intensive, yet most sensible "cure" is to pick up most of the strands and re-bleach them... LOTS of time, care, skill and patience involved.... Condition like crazy before

attempting to tone them.. and, perhaps you may not NEED to use a toner!

Here at Beauty Fusion, we offer a wonderful "double blue" .11 shade family, which I

recommend be mixed, equal parts, with our Oxycreme Five Volume Developer. These pigment rich shades develop very quickly on pre-lightened hair.. usually in under 8 minutes.

You will remember that Beth Minardi Signature Shades had an "ICE" (blue silver) group of shades in all three color categories. Wella offers an 10/81 silver blonde shade in Color Touch. So, take a look at the demi liquid and demi creme BLUE or SILVER BLUE shades you carry in your dispensary. Mix as directed and watch them as they develop.. this is not the

time to leave the client after applying them.

PS. Beauty Fusion -Artego offers a wonderful "Ash" -BLUE "anti brass" shampoo which does wonders on any client who dislikes "brassy" hair color. AND, Celeb's Flawless Diamond is

FABULOUS when we plan to keep blonde hair icy and bright. And, of course, color conditioners in Platinum or White, from companies like Artego, Celeb, Wella, Overtone and Evo Fabulous.. are the BEST for use at the sink... and for retail.

I'm conducting classes which will address Blonding, corrections, color changes, highlightings

and gray coverage. Our events are sponsored by Beauty Fusion, which I am delighted to

share as an important new color option.

Two seats remain open at our Palm Beach event: Sunday, January 15th.

And 15 seats are open for our March 13th event in the Hilton Head area of South Carolina. Our host there is Candace Aldrich of the gorgeous Petrvs Salon.

.. AND join me for a two hour "Learn at BREAKFAST WITH BETH" or "LUNCH and LEARN"

at this year's ABS in Chicago. For details or to purchase your ticket. Contact Damion Devine

at 561-252-0544.

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