I am often reminded of the challenges we face as we attempt to create delicate pastel
tone in the hair. Performing this color result is not always 100% successful. And, doing
so may require several appointments in order for us to reach that desired angelic pastel
tone.
This morning, a dear colorist pal wrote me. She had attempted to create very white, platinum
blonde highlights, working on very thick, coarse, dense, brunette hair. After processing the
highlights, rinsing, shampooing, and thoroughly towel drying the hair, she applied a Redken
SEQ Titanium shade.. and both she and the client were truly delighted with that pastel, cool
result.
The client called today, saying that after shampooing her hair, the white was "gone" and the hair was yellow. OK. several things might have gone wrong here. My first response includes the following:
Perhaps the Glaze/Toner formula was not deep enough.. OR... it was not permitted to properly process sufficiently. I took a wonderful SEQ class in NYC about a year ago and our
instructor shared that many colorists do NOT process SEQ for a sufficient amount of time. She recommended formulating with care, and processing for 20 minutes (on damp hair) at
room temperature.
Or
.. and this is the ugly part: If the hair reached only a golden or yellow stage, there is NO WAY to obtain a lasting, truly pastel "white" tone on the hair. While we must NEVER pre-lighten hair to white, when attempting to create platinum/white.. the hair must be pre-lightened to
PALE YELLOW... which is the color of a banana.. not the SKIN of th banana. but the banana
itself.. that almost white/beige/sheer yellow. This makes the hair very pale, porous, fragile, an
able to accept a true pastel blonde toner. If YOUR client thinks her hair is gold or too yellow
the most labor intensive, yet most sensible "cure" is to pick up most of the strands and re-bleach them... LOTS of time, care, skill and patience involved.... Condition like crazy before
attempting to tone them.. and, perhaps you may not NEED to use a toner!
Here at Beauty Fusion, we offer a wonderful "double blue" .11 shade family, which I
recommend be mixed, equal parts, with our Oxycreme Five Volume Developer. These pigment rich shades develop very quickly on pre-lightened hair.. usually in under 8 minutes.
You will remember that Beth Minardi Signature Shades had an "ICE" (blue silver) group of shades in all three color categories. Wella offers an 10/81 silver blonde shade in Color Touch. So, take a look at the demi liquid and demi creme BLUE or SILVER BLUE shades you carry in your dispensary. Mix as directed and watch them as they develop.. this is not the
time to leave the client after applying them.
PS. Beauty Fusion -Artego offers a wonderful "Ash" -BLUE "anti brass" shampoo which does wonders on any client who dislikes "brassy" hair color. AND, Celeb's Flawless Diamond is
FABULOUS when we plan to keep blonde hair icy and bright. And, of course, color conditioners in Platinum or White, from companies like Artego, Celeb, Wella, Overtone and Evo Fabulous.. are the BEST for use at the sink... and for retail.
I'm conducting classes which will address Blonding, corrections, color changes, highlightings
and gray coverage. Our events are sponsored by Beauty Fusion, which I am delighted to
share as an important new color option.
Two seats remain open at our Palm Beach event: Sunday, January 15th.
And 15 seats are open for our March 13th event in the Hilton Head area of South Carolina. Our host there is Candace Aldrich of the gorgeous Petrvs Salon.
.. AND join me for a two hour "Learn at BREAKFAST WITH BETH" or "LUNCH and LEARN"
at this year's ABS in Chicago. For details or to purchase your ticket. Contact Damion Devine
at 561-252-0544.
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