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THINKING Before MIXING COLOR

More than I would hope to hear, colorists sometimes complain about a shade which

"does not cover gray". When they tell me the shade they use, they often fail to

share the following information which is:


"WHAT IS THE COLOR OF THE HAIR WHICH HAS NOT YET TURNED GRAY"

This information is critically important! Chemists tell us that they will "name" a shade

when they see the results of the color when applied to 100% white hair.


A Level 7 shade of permanent hair color will turn white hair to a level 7 - medium blonde

A Level 3 shade of permanent hair color will turn white hair to a level 3 - medium brown

.. and so it goes


Now, Let's pretend that the hair is 50% level 3 (medium brown) and 50% white

The level 7 formula will turn the white hair level 7 and it will turn the level 3 hair to a level 5

So, that formula will create a "blend" of level 7 and level 5 hair. The gray COVERED.. but

it covered to the level of the formula.


Now. Let's apply a level 7 formula to hair which is 50% level 7 and 50% white

The white hair will cover to a level 7.. medium blonde

The level 7 hair (not yet gray) will remain level 7 -- medium blonde

The gray "covered"... using this same product.


NOTE: Remember that a level 8 shade is 80 percent lift and 20 percent deposit.

In almost EVERY SINGLE CASE, unless you are covering gray in naturally blonde hair.

PERMANENT HAIR COLOR SHADES levels 8, 9, 10, 11 or 10 WILL NOT COVER GRAY.

These shades were developed to create blonde results on hair which is level 5 (lightest brown) or lighter.


So, when covering gray, always remember that the hair which has not yet turned gray must

be considered. Your safest formulas will be at the same level of the "not yet gray hair" or

one or two levels lighter.......... The more you attempt to lighten hair as you cover gray, the less control you have over unwanted warm undertones.. and the less perception of gray

COVERAGE you will observe.


Recent question which YOU now can answer: " Beth, I don't like Majeral 9.1 because it

doesn't cover gray" ANSWER: Level 9 shades were not developed to cover gray.


Coming in April: Immersion Into Hair Color with Beth Minardi, Chicago, Ill.




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