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TOO LIGHT - TOO ASH

I enjoyed a brief romp through the Houston Neiman Marcus cosmetic department

yesterday, and was helped by a very attractive associate there..... One problem:

Remember: Not everyone's hair lightens to a warm tone. This associate shared

that she is on a budget and that she colors her hair at home. Her hair is chiefly

white (gray), and the remaining pigmented strands are a deep, cool brown.

She obviously uses a permanent hair color.. light ash blonde.


This woman's skin is a rich, golden copper, and her eyes are brown. The hair appears

to be between a level 6 and 7. The gray has covered to a VERY ASH tone, and the pigmented strands are a strange "faded" warm blonde shade. This person wears

great makeup, takes great care of her skin and dresses well. She IS a cosmetic

expert. ... and she knows something is "not right" with her hair..... It is TOO LIGHT and

TOO COOL against her warm, deeper complexion depth and tone.


Being me... I could not stop looking at her hair. That ash, faded brown/blonde, "flat" color

did NOTHING to accent her beautiful European, honey-toned, rich skin color.


Transitioning this situation is rather easy. What would I do? I'd first place very definitive,

strong, rich warm blonde/brown LOWLIGHTS into the hair. .. creating a richer shade-on-shade

result. Then after processing and shampooing out the highlights, I would glaze the

hair with a warm golden blonde, acidic liquid demi shade.15 minutes on damp hair, at room temperature. This technique creates a rich light warm brunette result, accented with golden blonde selected strands. Of course, you can use whatever brands you choose. Right now,

I'm using Beauty Fusion Photo Tech color... No PPD, NO Alcohol, No MEA. No irritation

at the scalp:


My lowlights: 1 1 /2 ounces of 6WG with 1/2 ounce of 5/0. Glaze: 12G. All Beauty Fusion

Demi's used here are mixed with equal parts of 5 volume Oxymilk developer. Remember,

I AVOID simply deepening the entire head.. this is a fast way to deepen the hair.. but the results are not as interesting or beautiful... and clients think they can achieve this simple deepening of the hair at home...... not usually a pretty sight.


Of course, GREAT product that performs as expected is important.. but the work, the

technique, and the professional "eye" are absolutely necessary here. YOU'VE got

the talent and the tools right in front of you. Join me for class in Palm Beach, in Ridgeland,

S.C. and at ABS.. as well as in Houston, Texas.. and other locations for color class in 2023.

I look forward to seeing you! Beth

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