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Writer's pictureBeth Minardi

Underlying Tones - Not Always Predictable

Have YOU ever cared for a client whose natural shade was a very dark brunette?

If so, I'm certain you've noted that many of these clients transition to a red-orange

or orange stage after about 15 minutes, and, that their hair then continues to lighten to

golden very slowly.


BUT! There is NO WAY to be certain about precisely "how" hair will "lift". Yesterday,

a lovely young brunette modeled for me. Her natural deepest brown hair (VIRGIN HAIR)

lightened to a "gold" with just a "hint" of orange.. very very quickly.. I was using powder

lightener mixed with 20 volume developer!


We learn every day. Clearly, it is best to avoid assuming anything!. While certain

chemical trends truly do exist, we can never be 100 percent certain about how hair will

lighten, darken or accept color. After doing your best to formulate, Be sure to take a

strand test.. or take a very, very close look at "what's happening" to your client's hair.


I have begun to realize that today, almost NO hair is "virgin". Exposure to numerous

products, impure water, the sun, pollution.. all take their toll on the hair. MANY

clients truly believe that if their hair is below the shoulder.. or longer, and that they

have not colored or texturized their hair for six months or more.. that the hair is

"virgin"......... as you know, this is WRONG! B

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