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Understanding Hair Color Alkalinity

In conference today with hair color expert Max Maisano, he shared details about color

ingredients; helping us understand important details designed to help us as we shop

for hair color.

As you know, almost every type of hair color contains some sort of alkalizer.. from almost

a zero amount to highly alkaline. The MOST alkaline color products we use in salons

are high lift blonde shades and all types of lighteners (bleach). Without any alkalinity,

color can only coat and penetrate the cuticle, and adhere to the outside of the hair's


Sometimes, in order to "lift" natural color which is housed in the hair's cortex, we

need a "Free" or a "Fixed" alkalizer as an ingredient in color -- Ammonia is a FREE ALKALIZER- effective and powerful.

It is regularly used as an ingredient in permanent hair color.. When in contact with the hair, ammonia starts out with a high Ph level, and over time (usually one

hour or less) ammonia's action in the hair SLOWS DOWN. When you see ammonium hydroxide as the color's alkalizer. the ammonia excites the ammonia hydroxide and keeps

the bright tones .. permanent red, copper and gold tones, penetrating into the cortex.

MEA -- Mono Ethanol Amine is a FIXED ALKALIZER and is liquid rather than a gas. MEA

keeps on working and does not "disappear" as it remains in contact with the hair. BUT,

because the substance does not possess ammonia's initial "crack" or "hit" into that cortex, it's ability to create very intense, long lasting gray coverage or bright tones, attached to

permanent (oxidative) dye molecules in the formula, the substance is made more more effective when direct dyes.. dyes that do not require oxidation.. and which STAIN the hair

.. are present in the formula.

Let's talk about this in my classes. Join me. I hope to see you at ABS, Chicago, this

weekend .. Seats remain at my Sunday IMMERSION INTO COLOR session (12:30 - 2:30),

lunch included. OR at my Monday IMMERSION INTO COLOR session (9:30 - 11:30AM)

breakfast included. Each in-depth learning session is accompanied by a framable

diploma and social media options including photos with yourself, our beautiful models and

me. Team Beth members Buddy Dudley, Chris Zamastil, Gretchan Alimov and David

Maderich will join me. Managing our day: Damion Devine and Elisa Messick. I hope

to see you! Beth

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