We have all welcomed clients whose hair needs correction. At times, the root area,
.. hair at or near the scalp, is lighter and/or brighter than the darker/drabber hair
lengths. Often this hair has been colored and "retouched" at home, or by a colorist
who uses permanent hair color to refresh faded hair lengths. Due to hair length
porosity, that hair 'grabs" duller and darker than expected.
Red hair can look brown or burgundy, Brunette hair can look dull and almost "black" and
blonde hair can appear grayish or very ashy. When this is the case, performing a controlled
color removal treatment is very important.
Most of us have good color removal shampoos like PURITY BATH by ARTEGO, Malibu "No More
Goo" shampoo or L'Oreal Metal Detox. These often work very well. BUT.. there are times
when more intense correction is necessary when these unattractive areas of the hair are
more deeply stained. If you do not currently stock a "base breaker" product, I'm sharing
this easy-to-creat "controlled color remover" formula with you. Here is what to do:
You will need: Creme or Powder Lightener (bleach). Twenty Volume Developer (peroxide)
Shampoo. and Conditioner.
Pour two ounces of developer into a bowl and add 2 ounces of creme lightener or two scoops
of powder lightener. Mix will until completely dissolved .. free of clumps or lumps.. Next,
add the shampoo. Again, Mix thoroughly. Then, add the conditioner. and blend until
Brush the client's hair well to eliminate any tangles. Then, escort your client to the sink. Wet the hair with warm water. IMPORTANT. When hair is evenly wet, TOWEL DRY THE HAIR THOROUGHLY -- particularly important the the mid-shaft and ends are left "damp"..
and not "wet". DAMP HAIR ACCEPTS THIS COLOR REMOVER MORE READILY AND
MORE EVENLY THAN DRY HAIR DOES.
Now, apply your color removal formula. Wear gloves. Use a tint brush and then your fingers
to assure that all the hair is moistened with the formula. In most cases you will not need to
apply this to the "root" area of the hair.. unless that area is also "too dark". Massage very
gently yet thoroughly into the hair. Now WATCH as you see the level of the color begin to
change. . Be CAREFUL: Some color lightens in only 3 -5 minutes. Other shades can
take longer. It is better if you SLIGHTLY over-lighten those hair lengths.. which you can
address, using an acidic demi formula later in the appointment.
When you believe you have reached the desired level .. enough color removal... begin
rinsing the hair for a LONG TIME, using warm water. Then shampoo thoroughly, and
condition the hair. When the hair is dry and detangled, you can begin the desired hair
Correcting hair color often takes TIME... and requires effort and experience. Clients realize
this only when you POLITELY tell them what you are doing... and why. In my experience,
the client you "correct" is yours for a very long time! I hope this little recipe has been of
help to you, and I look forward to seeing you in class this year. We have added Georgia,
Ohio and Connecticut to our group of IMMERSION INTO COLOR events during 2024.
Wishing you continued success! Beth Minardi