Controlling Color Action - Fact vs. Fiction

Speaking with so many talented salon professionals continues to be one of the most joyful

parts of my life. Almost everyone I know has attendd numerous educational programs, as

they work to reach the top of our beautiful business.

In my experience, FAR TOO MUCH importance is placed on the role of developer (hydrogen

peroxied) volume with respect to the lifting action of permanent hair color. While peroxide

volume does influence how a permanent color formula can lighten natural melanin from the

hair's cortex, it is important to note that the level of a shade.. and its relative Ph is the most

critical determining factor.

What we know about manipulating pigment in the hair's cortex: The higher the alkalinity of

a permanent hair color (or hair lightener), the stronger the "lifting action" of the formula.

As we know, regardless of the alkalizing agent present in the formula, (ammonia or an ammonia substitute), permanent hair color formulas must posssess

an alkalinity of at least a Ph of 9.3 in order for the formula to enter the cortex,

which allows both life and deposit of this permanent color shade. AND, Hight LIFT shades.

levels 10, 11 and 12 (or 13!) require a Ph of 10.5 to exert the maximum amount of pigment removal in the hair possible using hair color rather than hair lightener.

So, the DRIVING FORCE of what color can do resides NOT in the volume of

developer used, but in the relative Ph of the product. Higher alkalinity, allows

the cortex of the hair to open and to be able to recieve the level of oxidation necessary to

diffuse and lighten pigment from the hair.

YES: Highler lvels of peroxide Do Create a BIT of difference in "Lift". But, it is not accurate

to note that,( and I quote): "Use 10 volume developer for 1 level or lift. Use 20 volume developer for 2 levels of life, use 30 volume developer for 3 levels of lift.... etc. Again

the "motor' the major driving force of "lift" is attached to the level of the permanenet

hair color being applied. One very famous colorist explained this by saying: "A level

8 hair color is 80 percent lift and 20 percent deposit, while alevel3 hair color is

30 percent lift and 70 percent deposit.

So, when I hear that some colorists, wanting to "incrfease the gray coverage or beauty

of a level 3 permanent hair color shade, believe that mixing this shade with 30 volume

developer will increase effectiveness...... I, with respect, must disagree.

I'm scheduling private 90 minute and 3 hour hair color tutoring sessions throughout the

summer. Payable via Venmo. For information or to schedule, email me at: bethminardi@gmail.com. B