THANK YOU to all those who have viewed what I want to be the StART of quick
important professional hair color education. More to come, particularly here on
our website for serious professional hair colorists.
So much to share about properly creating red hair. The fewest words might
resonate with those in a hurry: Looking at hair: The hair located at or near
the scalp "wants" to turn RED. The hair lengths.. not so much. Part of this
is due to the situation at or near the scalp.
Hair at or near the scalp is privy to body heat
Hair newly emerged from the scalp is not as "hardened" in the keratinization phase..
Very Dark, natural hair color, leves 1, 2 one 3. require "unbuffered", permanent red hair
color shades at levels 4 or lighter to both lift and to deposit strong red tone into that dark
Lighter natural levels pigmented hair, will more easily transition to red.. so, in order to avoid
a SUPER RED result... (unless that is what you want), "softening" your red formula.. best done
with a golden copper shade .. or neutral copper shade at levels 7, 6 o4 7.
ASK YOUR COLOR MANUFACTURER: They must be able to tell you: When looking at a swatch book, deciding what shade to order, ask them: "OK. I see the shades you
showing here. I need help. WHAT was the "starting level" of the hair you are showing on
this swatch? Is it shown on gray hair? On hair at the same level as the shade applied? On
natural blonde hair? Without this knowledge YOU are IN THE DARK!!!! (PS My Beth
Minardi swatches were shown on hair which started at 100 percent white (gray))....
Super bright, lovely red shades require being mixed with a "buffer" shade.. if hair is super
fine, light, gray or all white! .. UNLESS you and your client want to see a very, very BRIGHT
red at the scalp. ... Hair lengths are another thing.. they may need to be lightened if they
are currently brown.. OR low lighted or glazed with an acidic liquid red formula if they are
light, golden, or "dull" looking. ROOTS AND ENDS are two different things. Remember that
always. Avoid, in 99 out of 100 cases the "I'll just apply this color roots to ends and I'll get
a good result"... that thinking results to FAILURE.
Many colorist are finally embracing what I have predicted for months: Red, copper, and rich
cherry hair WILL BE HOT this season. BUT, None of us need a "hot trot" or a shade that
scare the hell out of the client.. or you. PLEASE reach out here on our page BEFORE you
jump into an appointment if you think I can help you.... Beter to "soften" a root red shade,
by intermixing with a nit of a neural shade at the same or similar level, than to apply a brilliant
red shade to the root area.. then, having a BLINDING RED result at the scalp.. and dull
In my video I shared a quick fix for hot roots. DO NOT attempt to bleach them or to correct them with another shade of permanent hair color. BEST BET is to use a blue-based liquid
or creme demi shade, mixed with five volume developer. SEQ, Color Touch, Rusk Deep Shine and Paul Mitchell.. as well as others.. have this shade. a BLUE or SILVER BLUE shade. For blondes, use a level 9 Blue Based demi... and for brunettes with super "too hot" roots, use a level 6 blade Based demi. Mix with 5 volume developer and apply to those "Hot
Roots" only. Process at room temperature for 20 - 30 minutes. The root will not be lighter,
but it WILL be softer, no longer a shade which BLINDS you when you look at it.. and all
will be well. I recommended Beauty Fusion's 9.11 and 6.11 shades for this. They work very
well, but you can use the shades you have in stock. Stay tuned here for more in-depth
color information.. and feel free to ask a color question here in our comments. I do hope
you will share our page with a salon pal. Let's reach out to more salon professionals who'd
like a place to learn and to share. At $25 a YEAR... I think bethminardi-allaccess is a
bargain. Thx for your membership. Classes coming up: Oregon, Pennsylvania, New
Jersey and Tennessee. See you there! Beth