top of page

RED HAIR - CHAPTER and VERSE

THANK YOU to all those who have viewed what I want to be the StART of quick

important professional hair color education. More to come, particularly here on

our website for serious professional hair colorists.


So much to share about properly creating red hair. The fewest words might

resonate with those in a hurry: Looking at hair: The hair located at or near

the scalp "wants" to turn RED. The hair lengths.. not so much. Part of this

is due to the situation at or near the scalp.

Hair at or near the scalp is privy to body heat

Hair newly emerged from the scalp is not as "hardened" in the keratinization phase..

Very Dark, natural hair color, leves 1, 2 one 3. require "unbuffered", permanent red hair

color shades at levels 4 or lighter to both lift and to deposit strong red tone into that dark

hair.


Lighter natural levels pigmented hair, will more easily transition to red.. so, in order to avoid

a SUPER RED result... (unless that is what you want), "softening" your red formula.. best done

with a golden copper shade .. or neutral copper shade at levels 7, 6 o4 7.


ASK YOUR COLOR MANUFACTURER: They must be able to tell you: When looking at a swatch book, deciding what shade to order, ask them: "OK. I see the shades you

showing here. I need help. WHAT was the "starting level" of the hair you are showing on

this swatch? Is it shown on gray hair? On hair at the same level as the shade applied? On

natural blonde hair? Without this knowledge YOU are IN THE DARK!!!! (PS My Beth

Minardi swatches were shown on hair which started at 100 percent white (gray))....


Super bright, lovely red shades require being mixed with a "buffer" shade.. if hair is super

fine, light, gray or all white! .. UNLESS you and your client want to see a very, very BRIGHT

red at the scalp. ... Hair lengths are another thing.. they may need to be lightened if they

are currently brown.. OR low lighted or glazed with an acidic liquid red formula if they are

light, golden, or "dull" looking. ROOTS AND ENDS are two different things. Remember that

always. Avoid, in 99 out of 100 cases the "I'll just apply this color roots to ends and I'll get

a good result"... that thinking results to FAILURE.


Many colorist are finally embracing what I have predicted for months: Red, copper, and rich

cherry hair WILL BE HOT this season. BUT, None of us need a "hot trot" or a shade that

scare the hell out of the client.. or you. PLEASE reach out here on our page BEFORE you

jump into an appointment if you think I can help you.... Beter to "soften" a root red shade,

by intermixing with a nit of a neural shade at the same or similar level, than to apply a brilliant

red shade to the root area.. then, having a BLINDING RED result at the scalp.. and dull

hair lengths.


In my video I shared a quick fix for hot roots. DO NOT attempt to bleach them or to correct them with another shade of permanent hair color. BEST BET is to use a blue-based liquid

or creme demi shade, mixed with five volume developer. SEQ, Color Touch, Rusk Deep Shine and Paul Mitchell.. as well as others.. have this shade. a BLUE or SILVER BLUE shade. For blondes, use a level 9 Blue Based demi... and for brunettes with super "too hot" roots, use a level 6 blade Based demi. Mix with 5 volume developer and apply to those "Hot

Roots" only. Process at room temperature for 20 - 30 minutes. The root will not be lighter,

but it WILL be softer, no longer a shade which BLINDS you when you look at it.. and all

will be well. I recommended Beauty Fusion's 9.11 and 6.11 shades for this. They work very

well, but you can use the shades you have in stock. Stay tuned here for more in-depth

color information.. and feel free to ask a color question here in our comments. I do hope

you will share our page with a salon pal. Let's reach out to more salon professionals who'd

like a place to learn and to share. At $25 a YEAR... I think bethminardi-allaccess is a

bargain. Thx for your membership. Classes coming up: Oregon, Pennsylvania, New

Jersey and Tennessee. See you there! Beth

147 views2 comments

Recent Posts

See All

WHAT Is ME+. ??

ME+ dye technology, by Wella was created to minimize possible NEW allergy or sensitivity to hair color. It is present in many shades of Wella Kolestone Perfect Hair Color. This ingredient is a sci

SALON USE ONLY -- But IMPORTANT

Several manufacturers offer very effective, very low Ph shampoos intended for use ONLY at the backbar.. when lightener or color are being removed from the hair. These exist usually at a ph of around

‘COVERAGE’ of Gray.. Reality vs Perception

When gray hair is processed with a color formula ( category, level, tone, etc). The term ‘coverage’ is a matter of interpretation and perception. For many salon pros, ‘coverage’ of gray obtained from

2 Comments


Where is the full length video on red hair?

Like

Love you! Love your enthusiasm, your willingness to excite and educate us!

It's the power of education we need to create and be confident in our services . I appreciate how you teach and explain in terms we understand!

I am better because of you Beth!

And I THANK YOU from the bottom of my heart for it all!

40 yrs in the business! Hope to meet you someday!

Brenda P.

Like
bottom of page