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Gray "COVERAGE"... Today

Right now, we are caring for two different requests from clients asking to COVER

their gray hair.


Client type one: The client who prefers that every single hair look monochromatic.. That

the gray hairs EXACTLY MATCH the color of the hairs which have not yet turned gray.

Indeed, the gray is GONE.. and the hair looks completely even in color.


Client type two: The client who hopes to see gray as a highlight. -- Subtle or more

contrasting. They ask for the gray hair to appear effectively "BLENDED".. leaving

the "still pigmented" hair shiny, but no lighter or darker than it is naturally.

The COVERAGE of the gray hair, while complete and very long-lasting, creates a dimensional shimmer, slightly lighter or with more contrast against the hair which has

not yet turned gray.


After a very thorough pre-service chat with the client. YOU are in control. Brands like

Wellal Kolestone Perfect, L'Oreal Majarel, Goldwell TopChic and many others, correctly formulated and processed for the full development time directed by the manufacturer.. will create that very effective "one even, completely saturated shade" of gray coverage, insuring

that the gray is GONE.. with no "shade on shade" effect. A number of clients continue to

prefer this approach so that the viewer sees avery even 'no possible gray apppearance"

color result.


AND: For a long time, I have VERY effectively COVERED gray, with a more multi-shaded, "sheer-yet-complete", more "modern"

tone-on-tone finish using Wellal Color Touch. I use a formula level 8 or deeper. I mix

equal parts of color with Wella 1.9 percent Color Touch Processing Solution, and apply this to

the "salt and pepper" regrowth area. I apply taking very fine sections so that all of the hair requiring transition away from that "white", gray is completely saturated with the formula. Next: Cover the hair with a plastic cap, and

process the color under a pre-heated source for 20 minutes.. Then, remove the plastic cap from the hair and continue processing the color for 20 minutes at room temperature.


This flexible approach can also be created using Goldwell Colorance Plus, Matrix Color Sync, L'Oreal DiaLight Color and other more opaque alkaline demi colors.

NOTE: Wella's ILLUMINA brand is a permanent color collection which, in addition to deposit only, can be mixed and processed to create either a sheer yet complete gray coverage .. without "lift" OR

with up to three levels of lift effected on the the still-pigmented hair ... Again, the choice, as

aways, is YOURS.


The takeaway here: You and the client must agree completely and clearly, what the

term "gray coverage" means. Both of the approaches I share here "cover" gray hair.. but

that final level of monochromatic or shade-on-shade coverage remains a choice to be

decided upon between you and your color client.

 
 
 

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